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Why do you need to dry to the inside? Where do you expect the moisture to come from? Sounds like you have good water management on the exterior. Your foil faced polyiso will act as a vapor barrier on the exterior. Certainly this assembly is done all the time with no issue. I’d be inclined to...

You’d be wasting money insulating the back and sides if the front is open to the air. Similarly no vapor barrier needed since it’s able to dry to the inside and the outside and there’s no real vapor drive since it’s not conditioned. If you’re putting a cladding on the back and side walls I would...

Could you make this work?

I understand the impulse to want to make sure it’s a real issue before you waste time / money. But to be honest you really should just call a pro immediately. Remember that it’s not just your life at stake here, it’s also your neighbor and her young son.

One more thing - if you can get away with 16 gauge you will find a lot of cordless options. I’ve been really happy with my Ryobi airstrike nailer, and it was reasonably priced. Yes - you need batteries and the gun is a bit heavier, but you really can’t beat the convenience.

I have a harbor freight 15ga nailer from their Central Pneumatic brand and it’s been just fine for 8+ years of light use. I’ve probably put 3000 nails through it in that time. My only word of caution is do NOT buy finish nails at HF. The adhesive they use on the strips stains horribly, and...

You have a somewhat tricky situation with the Dutch lap siding. You need undersill / finish trim to clamp the cut edge in place, but with the depth of the Dutch lap you can’t just slap on standard undersill / finish trim tight to the sheathing. You will either need to shim out behind the finish...

Probably not a huge load on those studs. Most of your roof load is going to be on the perpendicular walls. IMHO whether this is bug damage or not, you’re overthinking it. Have your bug guy start a preventative treatment plan, and monitor the situation. It’s not going to fall down tomorrow, and...

I would just use tape temporarily, then when everything is fit and finished tack it in with 18ga nails. Trim head screws will still leave a significant hole to fill and it will stick out in a piece that will be stained.

Took me a while to get back to this - had to wait for a day that I could devote to it that wasn’t too hot to work in the sun all day. I started to dig up the poly pipe, expecting it to just be long enough to cover where the direct bury cable emerges. Turns out it goes all the way, or at least...

Going to tackle this today. I picked up a GE TGL2P 14-hole ground kit at the hardware store. It includes 10-32 screws to be mounted in pre-drilled holes. I don’t have any pre drilled holes in this box. Do I drill and tap them? Through bolt? Can I get away with a self tapping screw that would...

Just to be clear on your recommendation here: I was planning to turn off the tandem 30a at the main panel in the house, and turn off the disconnect switch that exists just before the feeder exits the house before I do any work. Is your suggestion to turn off all the breakers in the main house...

All I’m trying to achieve right now is reworking the entrance into the building. It’s currently boxed in behind a false batten, and I need to rip all the battens off to get me a flat plane for new siding. So conduit will be a necessity. I took a look in the box to see what I was working with...

Started in on the renovation of “The Barn Shop” this summer. It’s a 36’x30’ building that dates back to probably sometime in the 70s. It’s been relegated to storage for the last few years since I bought the place but after some raccoons took to it last summer I finally made some space in the...

Or if price isn’t a concern… https://madisonironandwood.com/products/2x8-joist-hanger-bracket

Can’t really tell dimensions from the photo, but I would consider using a deck rail connector bracket. You could slice the back out with an oscillating tool so you can just slip it over. Something like this - there are a ton of versions on Amazon too...

Echoing above, you should put some attention outside first. Right now your walls have the opportunity to dry to the inside when they get wet, and based on the staining they have definitely gotten wet. Paint itself will act as a vapor retarder, and will at the very least diminish the ability...

I don’t think jacking the ridge up alone is going to do it, for the reasons you mentioned above. I’d approach it by jacking the ridge up just enough to take some of the load while you pull the walls into place with come alongs. The diagonal arrangement to the floor is where I diverge. Instead of...