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I am actually thinking the same thing on the plywood. I may use 2x10s around the entire perimeter and let the dirt hold the concrete below. I have it all squared off but i am nervous concrete will seep behind the 2x10s and come up. I guess i could always stager the trucks. Fill the footings...

You only lose a small area in the corners. Frame out an interior wall either 5x5 or 6x6 in each corner, use it as a closet or pantry, storage...etc in each corner. Every foot you move in the roof goes up a foot. This way you get maximum use of the room, vs a knee wall standard gable attic roof.

Thanks guys, i will prob try the method i mentioned. I am sure it will be tough to get the forms off, i plan to put the 2x6 or 8 on the inside of the ply, this way i end up with 24x24 slab but where the plywood starts there will be a 1.5" wider footing all around, this will be below grade...

I wish i could. I have a 24 x 36 now but in NYS we are limited to <600 sq ft or we need full frost walls. Its a stupid code in my opinion. I see many other frost states where you do not need this. Whether i went with a room above or not, larger than 600 and your payin HUGE. A monolithic vs frost...

Ok i will look around. I mean i am only talking 4 sheets of plywood. I will prob use 2x6s and start the plywood 2" down, cutting the plywood 16". I know this will cause a 3/4" step at teh top but thats fine. Do you recommend pressure treated or non treated. For some reason treated is a tad...

i have no idea, i never rented forms. Last time i poured i only formed the top 6" and cut the ground square under it.

I am building a 24'x24' garage with a 12/12 4 gable roof. I am ready to pour concrete as soon as the frost in NY breaks. Any tips on the forming? Should i use plywood, OSB, MDF? I am pouring your standard monolithic slab per NYS code but going a little deeper 18" and a little wider. Here are...

Ok I will try that. If I am 1725 then I am turning to slow which is why it takes 20mins to pump up my 80 gallon tank! I want to be at 900

I did and there was noting but the capacitor tags in there and the two caps

It's on a Kellog A-320-UA compressor driving a Quincy 310

I am wondering if anyone has seen a motor like this. I need to know if it's 1725 or 3450 rpm. No tags on it anywhere

Your spinning your compressor at 1061, my quincy cant go that fast. The range i am told is the low end is for filtration and the upper is for mechanics...etc. Quincy got back to me and indicated 3HP is what i want to be at for my 310.

ok nice, that sounds good. Thank you. 920 is where i want to be

Thanks i actually did read this but it didnt really tell me how to pick a HP motor for my compressor. It was more dealing with HP ratings and voltage drop. I may email Quincy

Do you have a link to your thread? Motor is to old with to much paint to see any tag. Its HUGE and from the 60s

This is 220V single phase. How do you calc the HP requirement. I was told the unloader system woudl require less HP because it helps with ease of start. What would happen if i end up with an undersized elec motor?

I have an older 310 2 stage compressor mounted on an 80 gallon tank. It has always been slow to build pressure in the tank (15mins). I believe it was always due to the older slow speed motor and pulley ratio i have. Compressor =14" Motor = 4" Motor speed = 1725 RPM at compressor 492 The...

Well that's interesting because it def is NYS code. I agree it's sufficient but my town tells me I have to get a NYS variance

Wow that is expensive. I deff will not be going frost wall. I may apply for a variance with NYS to see if i can go 28x28 with a monolithic slab. I def wont be putting that much money into a structure like that for the foundation. I have seen many buildings 30yrs old that are perfect, maybe some...

What did you end up going with and how much was the foundation. I am in the SAME situation here in NY. <600sqft mono, or frost wall if i go larger.