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I wound up hooking up my radiant and had the building insulated in December. Zero signs of any heaving or shifting, however Montana was weird this year and we were hit with lots of snow early (insulating the soil?) and despite lots of cold my ground is still thawed everywhere. Not a typical...

2 psi drop overnight is normal due to temperature drop. I would fill it and not add the sealant unless you find something. Air will leak where H20 will not.

Just realized I did not take any photos of the electrical wiring hooked up! Everything is masked off right now but I will get some when insulation is completed.

Finally have my system plumbed and wired up. Using a Thermolec electric (No NG, propane is to variable, and we have cheap hydro) boiler and prefab main panel from Blueridge Co. she really wants this project done! Currently getting the spray foam installed, and then it is time to fire it up.

Possible it has been sealed up?

I considered that, but my main worry is the ground and slab and it would have to be extremely expensive to get that done with a torpedo heater. Thanks for all the advice.

I am building my shop on a frost protected shallow foundation with the following specifications. 24"x24" thickened edge and 5" slab. 2" XPS under the slab, 2" along perimeter vertically 24" deep, and 2" horizontally 24" out. This all exceeded the design minimums for my zone of Montana. The...

They are in the battery packs of Makita 18v power tools for sure.

Forgot to add my cost included a pumper truck due to access. Only on side of the build site was accessible.

60x40x5" with 24" thickened edge and 1/2 fiberglass bars 24"oc ran me 22k last November. This was after I did excavation, vapor barrier, insulation, and radiant tubing.

All of these methods will work. Some will create a level of heat that will "possibly" damage the finish of your panels. I am guessing this is what damaged the panels in the first place. If I was in your shoes I would use a nibbler and give the roof the best opportunity to live up to it's...

1) Are you being bid Perma Columns, or Sturi-Wall brackets? Same company different products from them https://www.midwestpermacolumn.com/perma-column https://www.midwestpermacolumn.com/products/concrete-anchor-brackets/sturdi-wall-plus-wet-set-concrete-anchor-brackets Sturdi wall is what RR...

You don't need a VB between sheathing and metal. A VB is usually (unless you are in a climate that uses AC primarily) found on the interior. A water resistant barrier is preferred and nice to have but that's a different animal. Your friend was likely talking about a WRB as that is where you...

Have you verified the trusses are engineered for a ceiling load?

This might help explain some:

https://www.huduser.gov/Publications/PDF/FPSFguide.pdf this is the design guide. My understanding is a major consideration of a FPSF is that it uses heat loss to prevent the frost heave that would result from the shallow foundation ordinarily. Which is why an unheated building has differing...

Tagging along with this thread. Can anyone point me to the details of : "guidance for design of FPSFs in semi-heated buildings (41oF-63oF) is available in ASCE 32-01." which I found on page 4 of the builder's guide? I only plan to heat the shop to 50-55 and so don't meet the design guidelines...

If it is fiberglass, it would need a paper face in order to have "food" to support mold. My bet is dirt which a giveaway of where you have air leakage. Most companies recommend no paper face. It is an ineffective vapor barrier so you would be better served buying unfaced and putting up a proper...

Cedar insulated doors made by a local shop. I know OP has already made his decision, just giving ideas for anyone searching...

Compressive strength is identical at 25psi as long as you specify for under slab use. Spray Jones on YouTube has a few really informative videos on the subject. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk