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Jeepers that's huge! I agree with JakeKohl, 8,000BTU would be about right. You'll probably need to convert the 240V outlet to a 120V outlet, but that's an easy job as you can use the existing in-wall wire -- just reconfigure them inside the breaker panel and pop in a new receptacle. In the...

I've also seen "fat" aspen pads for sale. Was thinking of trying those when my current set needs replacement. On my current set, I can definitely see spots where the pad is thin and lets a lot of light through, while other patches are thicker and darker... When doubling up pads, is your water...

The ridge vent has some filter fabric to keep bugs etc out.

You had a different situation though -- attic fans are used to ventilate non-occupied spaces. What you had was an exhaust fan. ;)

IMO attic fans are nothing but electricity wasters... even in Florida: https://www.dom.com/about/conservation/pdf/attic_ventilation.pdf

I love swamp coolers. Let's see, July-August in Ohio averages an afternoon humidity of about 55%. Swamp cooler would only drop about 9°F in those conditions, climate's a little on the humid side. :( But I guess 9°F below ambient is better than 10 or 20° above ambient...

Interesting. Something's not adding up. That link says it has a 1HP motor. 1HP = 746 watts for a 100% efficient motor. Most motors are 50-70% efficient. So, if it really has a 1HP motor, it's severely under-driven (gear reduction?) if it's only pulling 340 watts.

Nice find. Looks like the 11' model? 340 watts, 73,200 CFM = 215 CFM-per-watt. Came out pretty close to my guesstimate on the 14' model above. :)

Yep, that's my impression as well when I visit my parents house on an air source heat pump. Don't treat it like a fuel furnace by setting the temp lower at night -- run that puppy at a steady 72° (or whatever) all day and all night, all winter long. I believe the PNW is indeed such a climate...

Well let's see. According to http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=most_efficient.me_ceiling_fans_over_52_inches , I see paddle fans moving between 180 and 549 CFM-per-watt (on high). A 14' Powerfoil BigAss fan (according to the installation manual) has a FLA of 5.6A @ 240V, which works out to...

COP Window/in-wall: 2.5 to 3.0 PTAC: 3.0 to 4.0 Mini-split: 3.3 to 5.0 So there is some overlap depending on model.

Mini-splits are usually more expensive than window/wall/PTACs, but that $725 sale seems like a screaming deal.

We'd love to see a pic of your frame when done. :)

Keep the sheet metal case... just ditch the plastic wings.

It does here too, but usually in the wee hours of the morning when I'm sleeping in the house and not working out in the shop. ;) Usually I'm out there in the evenings after work, during the warmest part of the day. It may not always be above 40°F then, but especially in the fall and spring, I...

As long as you rig up a way to keep it from falling out of the window, I don't see why you can't strip the window kit off a small A/C unit and and add some weatherstripping of your own. What I might do is make a platform that rests on the interior window sill and has a slot cut out to clear the...

I purchased an Amana window/through-the-wall unit for about $600. It's a 240V reversible heat pump. Heating, when temps outside are over 40°F it uses heat pump mode which uses 1/3 as much as electricity compared to pure resistive electric heat. Saves some $$$ on my power bill. Below 40°F...

Nothing wrong with that ridge vent. I have that on my house, works great. I think what you're lacking is an separate attic space for soffit-to-ridge convection to occur. Even if uninsulated, an air barrier will do wonders to keep the space below an attic cooler.

True, but if you're the only one out there, you can only run so many tools at once. It's usually when you have other people working at the same time that the issues start...

1. I dunno about local NY codes but plastic is fine per the NEC. 2./3. I think code requires GFCI outlets even for detached garages now, so what you'll do is run 12-2 from the breaker to the nearest wall box and install a GFCI receptacle there. Connect the incoming power to LINE and then run...