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Agree with ^^^ Use the studs as is and deal with the extra height. Depending on the chosen siding you can stretch the layout with trim boards. Splicing in a short piece of sheetrock at the top corner is a simple chore and easy to cover with a 12" knife.

In the garage, run the rock any direction you want, just insure that you have adequate bearing around the perimeter for screws. **** edges will almost always develop a bulge when you mud it up unless you feather it out a long way or build a recessed joint...

Trusses are designed for the intended/anticipated loads. If you want to hang a bunch of weight then tell the designer and that is what you will get. As the span increases or the weight increases then the truss members will get bigger. Simply no mystery. FWIW, I just installed some 42' scissors...

D45 has the right answer and it all depends on the type of pipe. Every fire code will dictate 6" min for a single wall pipe and that 'looks' like a single wall pipe......

You can 'usually' hang additional weight from the bottom chord of the truss. There is a built-in dead load and live load number for every truss made in a plant and supporting the front edge should not be an issue. If you can access the space above then you could lay a 2x4 across the several...

14' is not that high...plenty of shops much higher and still have reasonable lighting and heat/cool systems. The money spent on dropping the lid will go along way to buying some new LED strip lights and a couple of fans.

Yeah, you have a issue that will easily be traced back to the type and depth of fill behind the wall, the height of the wall, and the setback of the building from the wall. Generally, the ideal situation would have the building footing the same distance from the wall as the wall is high (45°...