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Your thoughts will work well. But the only thing I would recommend is not using PT for the exposed rafters. PT is not very good wood, it has about half the strength of a select structural hem-fur. Instead just be sure to protect the rafter tails with a fascia. I assume your post frame...

rnixon - please comment on your floor finish and how slippery it gets (wet or damp shoes) in comparison to a simple smooth troweled floor…. Both when first applied and now 5 years later. Thanks !

I would urge you to seal the joint with foam to keep the infiltration out…. I can only offer some thoughts….. 1. Use a torpedo style kerosene heater to warm the area you are sealing. But not too close. 2. Read the instructions for whatever foam brand you use. Keep the cans in a warm space...

Might the precaster have set threaded inserts for railings they sell? Are these new or old stairs? If new try reaching out to see if they did cast in place. If not then most precast stairs are 2-3” thick. I would line up your rails, mark out the mounting holes and thru drill for stainless...

Dampproofing is NOT waterproofing. Damp proofing is typically an asphalt based product that is rolled, brushed or sprayed on the foundation wall. In the case of concrete block foundation it may get parged before dampproofing. It will not typically span cracks. Drylok coating on the inside can...

Consider using an anchor bolt that gets epoxied into the slab……

+2 on the Barrina fixtures!

I used off cuts of LVL’s as temporary ramps Until I poured my apron and driveway….. I think they stayed sound for about 2years tops before they started to get mushy, they seemed to absorb a lot of water, I don’t think you want to use engineered lumber as a ground contact skid. Be sure if you...

I would recommend the conditioned crawl space and not vent it. I think your stepson will have less long term problems that way. A good heavy 10 mil vb would stand up nicel to occasional access. Maybe good to try to get some of the broken concrete out of there now before vb goes down. I run a...

I wouldn’t discount the use of a southern yellow pine or Douglas Fir in a 60’s built garage….wood was of much better quality than today’s ****.

I don’t think your missing anything. How ever are you thinking of increasing rafter tie size so more weight could be added…are you trying to increase dead load or live storage load? I see Connecticut follows the 2015 IRC. Not sure when the deduction for rafter size/rafter spans & height of...

Mike - Rafter span tables do not take into account where the rafter ties land. Rafters if sized properly for the ties down at top of wall will be fine for raising ties the 2’ as you are planning on. The Simpson connector you linked is what I was thinking… or simple angle brackets, but that...

GRK-RSS screws will work well for your alterations on moving the rafter-ties up. Also make sure the rafter to top plate connection is solid. Probably currently just toe-nails, I’d recommend adding some Simpson connectors. Your OH door header may need something a bit deeper to span 18’…. The...

If that is an exterior wall & the I-joist support a second story I am pretty sure there should be vertical 2x material acting as squash blocks at the ends of all I-joists. Then electric could be roughed through the 2x material

Review the sturdi-wall or perma-column websites. Depending on where you are located they may work (are you in Sidney, Australia?) code wise? I also see Simpson has a moment connection bracket, even for 4x material…. These would connect to top of the walls. Any idea on construction of those...

Seems straightforward as you indicate. Consider using something other than osb for the form(plywood or melamine finished mdf). Or maybe paint the osb before cutting and caulk the joints. Do the plans call for using stirrups for holding the horizontal reinforcement in place?

Perhaps reaching out to local architects in the area and specifically ask who they use for structural engineering services? A lot of smaller structural offices can be one man outfits and may not need to advertise.

Middle right of second photo….

Not sure of the intended use for the foam described above….”tar-like paper” it sounds like polyiscosanurate or what is commonly used on commercial roofs. This can be used in walls & roofs but should never be used underground for slab insulation. It will absorb water. Hopefully under slab use...

Link to old thread below...... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267628