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Yep, but I think I'd need to do something in the middle or it would bounce a bit. I already bought all the 8' 2X6 so I'll just run it this way. I have a pile of 4x4 from another project I want to use up anyway. Thanks.

Just the rim joist at the front. Thanks.

Good points. Joists will run front to back (2X6X8). I intend to diagonally brace the posts at the back and sides, but this loft will be used to store items and seldom accessed by anyone walking on it, etc. It's an outbuilding used just for storage.

Nothing knotted here...people don't read the posts, then make comments that aren't applicable.

That's just about exactly where I'm heading. I may double the center joist and move the post back 3'.

That's an option. I spoke with one of the engineers at a local company that makes them. They did a great job with the monster LVLs they made me for our big shop build. This should be a piece of cake, but was trying to keep this as a budget build. Thank you.

I mentioned elsewhere in this thread that I am placing 6 4X4 around the perimeter of the platform so that it is basically self supporting. Just trying to keep the front opening as clear as possible.

Show me where I said that. Maybe read the thread instead of being so negative?

I thought so, but span charts state a 2X12 can span 23' with 40 psi live loads. I just don't think that's going to be the best option. I suppose I could make up a laminated beam with ply center and 2 2X12X20, but again...that seems like more work than necessary. BTW, an 8' 4X4 can support up...

The stamped plans for this building look a lot better than what you might expect. I did upgrade everything available when I spec'd it for snowload, wind, etc. Yes, it's not a stick built building, but not terrible. I am using 4X4 posts at the corners of the loft and at least one on the rear...

Undecided. I've been looking at span tables and trying to determine best case. I need other brains to look at this and provide input.

I'm adding an 8X20, 72" to bottom of joists, loft in our metal shed. I've anchored a ledger to the building, but am trying to figure out a way to support the front rim band with as little obstruction to the space as possible. I will have at least 6 4X4 posts around the perimeter of the...

So far, my 2 older controllers are fine, but I have some spares ready just in case.

Many of us have gotten the newer controller (years ago), but they've been out of stock for so long now I doubt they're ever coming back.

The door companies here charge $250 or less to install regardless of size. LM8500 is under $500 and install here is $100.

I neglected to comment on this part. I went with a 16 X 14 single door. Amarr, R19, commercial, highest offering they had at the time (2742 model) I believe the cost to me, cash and carry, was under $1800 including track, rollers, everything I needed to install it.

Well aware. I tend to go with experience when it comes to things like this. I'm sure someone has done it or tried it. Hoping to find someone or someones. Thanks

I recently had a steel building (NOT red iron) built to use as a shed. I upgraded to the heaviest tube steel framing they offered and wondered if anyone has used the roof framing/trusses to hang something like a platform for storage. I have 11' walls and had hoped to use this height to hang a...

Better look at what the LVL header will cost you based on the door size.

A half bottle of dishwashing soap in a 5 gallon pail of water, then put the bucket over the entrance. The soap is a surfactant that will allow the water to drown the insects. Effective and not harmful to the environment.