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Agreed on all points. If I get to use the 75° column for SER then I will be fine at 65 amps through #4 aluminum before applying an 80% continuous duty derate to get my 48 amps continuious.

I’m not really excited about derating the charging speed. If I want 50amps for car charging I would indeed need 4/4/4/6 SER connected to my NEMA 14/50 receptacle? NNC says the 4/4/4/6 SER cable is .736 OD nominal. I think this should fit into a 1” knockout and clamp right...

So I can use the 75° column for SER but not NM-b of the same gauge? That’s interesting. That would mean I can use the same size aluminum or copper? If using this to plug in an EV charger don’t I still need to derate to 80% for continuous duty?

I have tons of room as the walls are open framing now. Will any of those work with 4/4/4/6 SER? I think I need an 1 1/4” knockout for the clamp connector? Yes, it will be flush mounted inside a 6” thick wall of my shop. You’re correct. I adjusted the OP to 6/3. Thanks.

What do you suggest then? Only other option I see is to spend four times as much money for equivalent copper because of box fill. I did find this Arlington F102 box that’s 42 cu in. https://rexel-cdn.com/products/arlington-f101-104-catalogpage.pdf?i=12FB4C6B-8B42-4D8A-B559-3F2F70C69889

I’m looking at wiring up a few 50 amp RV receptacles and aluminum SER is way cheaper than 6/3 NMB. The breaker and receptacle themselves are rated for aluminum but I’m not sure how or if the 4/4/4/6 SER will even fit in a standard plastic 4x4 box that the receptacle is made for. Has anyone done...

I have a kill-a-watt meter that reads amps and watts if that’s good enough. Let me find a cord end to hook up to the lamp.

Sparky1971, I would think so but there seems to be some question on whether the inspector will be happy about it since it’s not a clearly industrial building and there’s a house on the same property. Think I should just go for it and see if I get flagged? It’s a super pain to get an actual...

I already have a 200 foot roll of 12/2 PCS Duo for the dimming. Like I said. If I absolutely can’t do 240v I’ll run a MWBC to the switch and two runs of the PCS duo from the switch up to the ceiling boxes. I’m just hoping I will have enough wire for two runs and to all the fixtures. It’s going...

I already have the lamps and I can’t return them. I got the .99 amps directly from a sticker on the box and the lamp itself. PLT didn’t seem like a horrible brand nor 1000 Bulbs a disreputable vendor. At $50 for 14,000 lumens it seemed like a great value. I’m not gonna lie, I like a lot of...

The shop I had before this I ran 15 high bay T5 fixtures with six bulbs each in 36x48. I had to set them up on three circuits with three switches due to the load at 120v but I can’t think of a single time I ever had only one third of the shop illuminated. If I want the shop darker for some...

Sorry, 100 watts is the output not the input. They draw .99 amps each at 120V which of course can’t be found anywhere in the documentation except the lamp itself.

Are you basing this on the property zoning? If so I’m zoned agricultural not residental. My house is on the property though. The code seems pretty specific in both where 240v luminaries are prohibited and its definition of a dwelling unit. If it gets rejected I’ll just run it as a MWBC with a...

It’s a 30x60 pole barn with 18 foot walls and open trusses. The lights will be about 17 feet above the floor.

Yes, running 240v gives me plenty of headroom after the 80% de-rating. I want to run 18 of these at 100 watts each. But that would put me over on a single 20 amp circuit unless I run them at 240v https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/products/22191 I am planning on running a dimmer so having zoned...

Smaller wire. I can run all the lights off one switch and one run of 12ga NM-B

When I look at 210.6 (A) in the NEC it says: In dwelling units and guest rooms or guest suites of hotels, motels, and similar occupancies, the voltage shall not exceed 120 volts, nominal, between conductors that supply the terminals of the following: Luminaires...

No worries. I appreciate you double checking my install. I was unsure of the coupler and box adapter thing early on also and had to research it.

I connected them the way I did so that the box mounting holes would clear the ribs on the shop siding. I used a 2” threaded adapter on one end and a box adapter on the other side. They are glued together. According to Cantex one of the box adapter’s uses is connecting a threaded adapter to a...

In the end I used basically one roll of white and one roll of red. There’s a tiny bit of the white left still. It looks good all color coded like that. Almost a Christmas theme. Logically, this setup is a little puzzling to me. What is the purpose of the #4 green wires when they run a parallel...