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I'm in the middle of basically the same install (actually scarily close). I went underground pipe as I didn't want the unsightly (WAF is a big concern here) wire / conduit bridge between the two buildings. If you haven't already poured the slab for the new building you can also come up inside...

I would put a call in to your power company. That meter has a lot more demand data inside it than what they are surfacing to you online. I would just get someone from engineering on the phone and explain what is going on to them. They should be able to give you a full download info the interval...

Can you post a picture of your meter. Based on that I should be able to tell you if it is gathering data that your power company could give you to help narrow down what could be happening. 320 kWh in four days is still high compared to your historical usage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the meter truly says 47760 now and said 43479 three days ago something is wrong. Call your utility company and ask them to test the meter. Also ask for a recording meter (unless you already have a smart meter you can get the data from). Using 4300 kWh in three days would be highly abnormal...

You are probably right. I'm assuming these are full size fluorescent fixtures with separate ballasts. If so its pretty easy to miswire the universal voltage ones as they generally have more than the typical three (hot neutral ground) leads. I would pull the cover on one of them and check it...

How long is the run back to the panel? You can get some induced voltage in a wire that is near one that is energized based on how far they run together. This would point to that circuits group wire not being tight in the ground bar at the main panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless it goes directly through the siding into the back of the PB30 it needs to be an outdoor rated wire. The jacket/insulation on NM-B is not UV resistant and will be degraded rather quickly if it is exposed to sunlight. What you can do since you already have the NM-B is get a short piece of...

This is the part where I work where someone tells the new guy to go to the truck for a cable stretcher and the rest of us stand around laughing at him and trying to figure out where to mount the junction box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. Yes but there will still be live parts inside the panel that are exposed when the cover is off. If you have never worked inside a panel before then with one this busy please hire someone. 2. There will either be one or two common bars inside your panel. If there is only one then both...

With a panel that crowded you're going to have a hard time freeing up a space for a proper interlock kit. Do you use the welder outlet? If not I would remove that and move the two tandems at top right to that position. Then install the breaker that used to be used for that outlet in the top...

Mount some Burndy BDA (or similar) blocks in a large junction box to make the splice. If it were me I'd splice to 4/0 Al THHN for the rest of the run to the panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That one I got right. It's a GFCI receptacle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

True but then we get into what constitutes modification requiring compliance with current code. In my area any change to the sub-panel or main panel would require it to be brought to current. Basically touch either end and you have to bring it current. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See this is what happens when I try to read in a hurry. I read it wrong (and wired it wrong in my install). Re reading it now I see that you all are correct and I would need an appropriately rated protective device between the higher rated circuit and lower rated outlet. I will be adding a 15A...

Not legal under latest NEC. You must carry a separate EGC and not bond the neutral bar at the sub panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually 210.21 is requiring that the circuit conductor and breaker be at least able to supply the rating of the largest rated receptacle not the other way around. It is for instance permissible to have multiple 15 or 20 amp outlets fed by a single 30A branch circuit but it is not permissible to...

Don't need one. The breaker at the panel protects everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cost and complication. No need for it. A single switch takes care of it for about half the cost. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Electric tankless is not going to give satisfactory performance. There just isn't enough energy available. For instance A 30A 120V circuit can deliver 3600W Assuming a 3GPM faucet with 60deg F incoming water you are going to get a maximum of about 100 deg F hot water which to most people is...

So long as you carry large enough wire #8 is plenty there is nothing preventing you from adding an aux 120v outlet to a 120/240 (with neutral) wired circuit. This is how I have my compressor wired. 30A 2 pole breaker feeds #8THHN with neutral and EGC in conduit to the compressor location. There...