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But if you are determined to use those products, I dont think it really matters which primer product you use. The TDS for those products dont seem to show max time for re-coat window but make sure you put your next coat down in that recoat window. Or you will need to sand/screen the whole floor...

Glad to help, but you might not like what I tell you lol. Do you have any existing concerns about moisture? Or just doing that to be thorough? Usually you can tell if there will be moisture issues, but not always. Either way, you've gone through all the hard work of prepping it properly, why...

Stain sprayed without a conical tip, assuming the intent was for it to be an accent.

Yep. But you can also make it slightly pretty by staining prior to sealing!

Any floor coating will repel water and keep it on the surface longer than a porous, uncoated/unsealed concrete floor. And jacks are rough on any floor whether it is coated or not. Im a big fan of grind and seals or grind, stain and seals for garage floors. They mimic the look of polished...

"In the past 24 hours the auxilary heat has been running for more than 180 minutes" Ive had issues with my heat pumps not being wired correctly causing the emergency/aux heat strips to run wayyyyyyy more than they needed to. So that would be something quick to look in to. Or could also be a...

What are you going to be doing in this shop? Is it going to be a working shop or more for storage and display?

not much. The main three options for a base coat on a flake floor are epoxy, polyurea, and polyaspartic. Each one has it's pros and cons. Polyurea and polyaspartic (especially polyurea) seem to have some crazy sales-pitchy claims behind them like "4X stronger than epoxy" or "Lifetime warranty"...

You may have similar results renting a buffer or a "square scrub" machine and running 60 grit sanding screens on it. Less exposure to harsh chemicals is better.

Polyapartic flake floor?

That shopping list for me is complete! I tear out concrete weekly. And im not sure if that D7 is a Killdozer reference, but if it was, Im a big fan haha.

Everything is job dependent (existing slab condition, what kind of repairs are necessary, access for equipment, travel distance, finish desired, etc), but in a solid ballpark world, I would probably be at like $5.50/sq ft for a 400 grit polish finish, $6.00/sq ft for an 800 grit polish finish...

lol yea well not everyone has a jackhammer, demo saw, skid steer, 3/4-1 ton truck, dump trailer, etc.. to handle that side of things. If you do, then you can save a lot of money.

Not if you have to rip out the existing slab. You'd be much closer to $20/sq ft with rip out and repour (At least in my area of Charlotte, NC). New mono slabs on level ground will start around $10/sq ft,

For a messy shop like that, I would look into doing a "grind and seal" or polished concrete. If you are ok with how your floor looks, but just want it to be easier to clean, you could look into putting down something like RexPro Affinity or Coval, which are both sprayable top coats. Just make...

You can definitely get a nice concrete floor similar to a polished look, but it just depends on your budget and if you want to DIY or hire it out. I own and operate a concrete and coatings company, but im not here to pimp products or anything...just offer advice. What you would probably be...