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I voted metric on the left because that's how I setup my main box close to 40 years ago but then I realized that I setup the box in the race car trailer with the few metric tools on the right. I'm not sure if that means that what feels better depends on the application or if it means I don't...

Yeah, you should cut that out. You should also be prepared to find matching holes in the inner panel that also needs to be cut and patched.

I've bought thousands of O-Rings from McMaster-Carr. A few years ago I bought this set: 1110 piece O-Ring Assortment but prior to that I just bought a pack of whatever size I needed. 100 -006 Buna-N O-Rings are $4.25.

Combination spoke wrench/tire spoon?

Wow! That's a beautiful place. That's a great collection of cars as well. While I agree that Das Autobahrn is clever I think you need to stick with The Car Barn.

Yeah, that might cause an issue. I don't that I would've every known that those needed to come out if someone hadn't shown me. I'm happy to pass on the knowledge.

A schrader valve is really a check valve. If you open it by depressing the end then air can flow both ways and flows easier in the forward direction. To do a cylinder leakdown test using a compression gauge adapter you need to remove the valve so that air can flow into the cylinder. I use a...

That's a great question. Our current home was purchased in part as an investment to fund part of our retirement. We don't anticipate needing a 3,600 sq ft house in an expensive subdivision of the city in our retirement. Unless something drastic happens we should be able to sell the home we're...

In 2012 I moved 2,200 miles from Upstate, NY to Albuquerque, NM. It was a huge production and technically I didn't finish the move until 2018 when I made a trip back to NY with my truck and trailer to move my milling machine. I moved most of the shop in an ABF Freight U-Pack trailer. I took...

Sure, you can screw all of that up if you're a ham fisted idiot but the torque isn't that critical and I've done it hundreds of times without issue. That includes removing shocks that I later rebuilt so I'd know if I loosened a piston.

I've always just tightened them with an impact gun.

The correct GJ answer is to buy a lathe and make your own.

We use these for the race cars. -> FloFast pump

Case hardened isn't really a spec so it's not clear what you really need but McMaster-Carr has grade 8 strenght studs that match your needed dimensions.

Very good. It's part #37 in the picture Driftpin posted. Remove the main jet and the washer that's under it and push it out the top. Even clean the tend to stick a little bit. I use a brass punch. You shouldn't have to wail on it but you're likely to need to give it a tap or two.

Somehow I missed this thread till now. When you had the cars apart did you knock the emulsion tubes out and make sure that they're clean? Not doing that is a common rookie carb rebuilding mistake and soaking the carb bodies is unlikely to clean them effectively.

I'd use the nylon airline tubing that's used on trucks.

I almost never use the ball end of a hammer but dead blows are just better hammers. I can't think of any scenario where I'm whacking something with a hammer and it wouldn't be a benefit to transfer more energy into the thing I'm whacking.

This thread makes me want an EV just for the cool charger.

I have other options but unless I'm working on something that has windback pistons or pretty calipers I just use a big-*** pair of water pump pliers and one of the old pads.