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My go-to suggestion is to embed a I beam flush at grade into the concrete. You can weld fixtures, pull on things, cut them off, grind smooth and no problems sweeping the floor.

I am a all sorts of projects kind of guy, so I would put the lift in the corner with what most would say is not enough room on one side. Posts or other "monuments" will be in the way. If you are mostly cars kind of guy then I would put it into the bay next to the man door and let the bay up...

This makes more sense with the updated pictures. I would do steel 4x4x.188 (width for stability) but a good wood 6x6 probably would work, problem is the "good" part. Most 6x6 are going to be for post applications v. a beam in bending. Your quote on steel is also high but hard to get good...

If I am reading this right - you aren't spanning anything.

I have had several freestanding Jib's installed. Spec for about 250# 12ft reach was a 48x48x48" cube and a specific rebar cage. There are ways to attach to a structural slab as well but you aren't going to have that in a typical (even at GJ specs) home garage build.

I have one a lot like the one pictured at the start of the thread but it is all fridge. Works great. Way bigger than I need for soda and beer but the price was right (free) and it fits under my stairs to the loft nicely.

Fix the ground or put in a serious post that can handle the cantilever. For the wheel to work you need the spring to be loaded, to get meaningful and balanced load over 5-6" of travel is going to take a spring with free length that is probably 3-4 feet tall.

They didn't tap on the forms or vibrate the edges to prevent the rock pockets. Not worthy of a redo. Depending on how siding will hang and backfilling you may want to ask them to patch it with some grout where the edges will be exposed. Be reasonable in the request and you likely get some...

Those are no longer trusses. True trusses are comprised of triangles and members are either in tension or compression. Moving the bottom up and creating a trapezoid completely changes how forces are transmitted through the structure. It may end up working but I sure as hell wouldn't be...

I would be inclined to do a poured wall and veneer it to give the appearance you are going for. My go-to for small walls like this is split face block, start at least 1 full block below grade dry stacked, drive vertical rebar into earth a couple feet below the bottom course and fill the cores...

Toolboxes are a display item frankly I think maybe status item might be a better term. There are guys that use them to bolster image of mediocrity, there are those that are mechanical surgeons at the very top of the game. Not much different than a woman that lives in Beverly Hills and has a LV...

What they did when we added on was trusses up to the original exterior wall. Then did exactly as you are asking about. Peeled the roof off along the line that would become the valley in the roof. 2x8 (I think) was then put down on deck of old roof sheeting and nailed through to the trusses...

No experience but I really don't like posts. I dislike them so much that I built a box beam to span the full length of my shop (42') to support my loft area. Price wise - They don't look to be that great of a deal compared to wood framing. The floor loading is less than that of normal...

For hobby use - I would go 100% off-grid. Battery Bank, Solar, Inverter/Charger, and a generator. Generator for when you have high demand devices like welder or compressor but integrated to help recharge if your other uses (lights, small tools) are sucking down batteries too fast. Victron...

Personally I don't like smooth and products like smart side look fake to me. I have a similar disappointment with the Hardie Lap siding on my shop. I also question myself about having a house wrapped in kindling, but at least it looks good to me.

5/8" no groove T1-11, actual plywood, not OSB with a skin. Rigid enough to support itself. Paints well. Doesn't look "fake" Has an overlap edge so you don't have to do battens. Or go old school with T&G.

Sounds like you want the hydrophobic ones - If you want a good price you have to be willing to buy a lot of them. I use them in the boat all the time to prevent oily discharge. Couple friends and I went in and bought a case of 1000. I want to say we were down towards $0.25/pad for the thicker...

I have about 50' between front of my shop and the neighbors "stuff" on our shared access easement. It can get a bit tight backing trailer around the corner into the shop with the truck but doable. With the forklift it is easy.

Ready.... Fire.... Aim :unsure: Okay you have taken the first shot before really having a plan. You need a plan. Unfortunately based on what I think you want in the end you have made a fundamental error before you started. It isn't going to be impossible to recover from but it also is going to...

Length of building, a bit of blocking in the hip ends. This would be lowest cost material wise. I can't say if the builders approach might be a total lower cost due to labor. I would also prefer that the lid be attached to the structure(trusses) via screws than to a grid attached with nails...