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Are you maintaining that there is something actually broken on the lift? If so, what visual evidence or statements from the OP support that position.

The lift didn't break. If it had, then the OP wouldn't have been able to safely raise the vehicle back up and then safely lower it to the ground. First and principally, the condition shown in the first post was operator error. There is ZERO reason for a lift to be allowed to take on that much...

In the trunk of a car... any cheap plastic tub will work. Visible in the back of an SUV... put the tools in a cardboard box labeled "Job Applications"

Step 3: Redesign the entire 4 post lift (I will continue to add steps as this thread reaches new levels of absurdity)

Is the location flat or is there slope? Does the HOA dictate your roof style?

Step 1: Hire an engineer Step 2: Carefully deconstruct the garage Step 3:

The lack of reading comprehension is astounding. The OP's first post is perfectly clear as to what the situation is and what he is asking.

How do you operate the power unit and the lock release when they're on opposite ends of the lift?

Looks like the near right post is bound up. Did you try to raise it up a bit and get all the corners back into a locked position?

I had those lights in my garage. The pattern doesn't have a hard cutoff. At 12 feet height, and 1650 ft2 I had twelve of them. Used 3/4" conduit off the boxes for mounting. Ended up removing them after about a two years. I just couldn't live with the loss of overhead clearance. Here's the...

I feel sorry for you. :)

What you're actually doing is removing upside and downside price risk. While incurring carrying costs. And facing the risk of the asset becoming unsuitable for purpose. PT lumber is such a wildcard when it comes to storage. Personally, I wouldn't do it. And I would seriously consider using...

Not trying to burst your bubble, but you're ignoring the all-in cost to construct the shop. And the costs to sell the property. And just to toss a bit of hard data into the equation... the transaction value of the median home in Minnesota rose 88.5% from 1Q97 to 1Q16. So your $109K home's...

Fat Max I keep the cheapie model Komelons laying around, and don't get too upset when they walk off.

Are you in the desert? Arctic tundra? What's the application? Daily driver? Stored inside and never driven? You want one that's cheap or one that will last?

This is my go-to set for tiny stuff https://www.wihatools.com/master-tech-65-piece-set-esd-handle-mini-ratchet-microbits-in-metal-storage-box AMZN has it for better price.

The OP is considering a vinyl siding product. I can't imagine that appearance is among the top priorities. It certainly wasn't stated as such. Drywall and fire tape is cheap and relatively fast. I fire taped the mechanical space in my basement. It does the job just fine.

https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/product/axe-handle/ "Scandinavian Forest Axe" handle is exactly the right length. Shape looks close. Knobs are different.

5/8 drywall is under $0.50 per ft2. Fire tape the joints if you don't want to do a proper mud job.

I once found a good deal.