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Could be an issue with the centrifugal switch at one end of the motor. It's worth disassembling to check it out. There are videos on YT to show how to do it. Motor shop is not worth the effort for this size motor - they will tell you to buy a new one.

I don't think that's true - I just obtained a 10-year-old Home Depot LeFoo (Chinese-made) oilless 30-gallon compressor to do a roofing job where I needed something that would run on a standard household receptacle circuit. It is loud as hell, oilless single-stage, and shuts off at 140psi which...

To me, that bolt-on crankshaft bearing cap pegs it as a Champion - I think they are still using that exact same part, see this modern-day pump as a reference (the crankcase can handle 3 cylinders - also see location of oil fill boss and sight glass)...

Yes, they are one of the best bang-for-the-buck compressors that you can find out there right now. You add a [insert truck tool company name here] label to one of their units and it doubles the MSRP.

You can also suspend it, using rubber exhaust pipe hangers.

A bit OT but I ran into this exact same thing while installing new "soft-close" drawer guides in my kitchen this week - the instructions tell you to measure up 1 1/4" from the bottom to the top of the side rails, which is all you need to know, but then they tell you to use a level while...

You shouldn't be building up any charge then, unless parts of the cabinet are paint-isolated or your receptacle isn't grounded.

Is there a tank check valve at the inlet to the tank? Usually the tank inlet check valve has the port on it for the 1/4" diameter unloader line that goes to the pressure switch, which on your compressor is connected right at the head of the pump (very unusual). It almost looks like to me that...

If there is a light on the cabinet, just make sure that you have a 3-wire cord to the cabinet, and that the green ground wire (properly wired at the plug, with a properly-grounded and wired receptacle feeding it) is bonded to the chassis of the sandblast cabinet.

These older "suitcase" generators are very well built, but for their weight they put out a very small amount of power in comparison to the new inverter units. I have both a 600W and a 1000W unit, both built in the 1980s in Japan. They are better than nothing, but today there are better...

That's easy; you just ensure that your on-off pressure ranges are set differently. For example, you may have one compressor that turns back on at 90psi. Then adjust the pressure switch so that the other compressor turns on at at least 5psi different from that. You likely have to remove the...

Yes, definitely skip the oiler! 85% of the time my compressor gets used for blowing off/drying parts (prior to painting in some cases) and the last thing that I want is oil contamination on what I am about to paint. For home use, just keep your air tool oil bottle on your tool cart and add a...

I'm sorry, but this is simply not true. Especially when you have older batteries that have high internal impedance which the "smart" chargers won't properly charge (either they will fail to start charging at all, or claim that the battery is fully charged because they get tricked by the initial...

^This. Degrease the outside, change the oil, and run it first before you tear into it. If the rings are worn you will get excessive blowby which usually causes oil to end up on the outside of the pump via the crankcase vent. This will become apparent after you run it for a few hours. And if...

^ This. If you swap out the pumps, you won't even notice the difference. You likely don't have a big enough motor to get more flow out of that other pump anyways - that is really your limitation with the existing compressor. The manufacturers don't give you any extra motor HP to work with on...

It takes such a small amount of air that you could easily use a bottle of compressed gas of your choice from your local industrial gas supplier, along with a regulator. This would probably cost as much as a small pancake compressor, but I thought I would throw the option out there. Heck, you...

Some older all-metal pump oil cans, with a flexible metal spout, do not have any rubber parts in them - there may be a rubber gasket on the screw-on top but that can be changed out for a cork one. This also works well for storing and dispensing the 50/50 ATF-acetone rust penetrant.

Edit: just saw your signature line - you already have both a 310 and a 325 and several other Quincys so I am assuming that you know them pretty well already; doesn't it match up with either of them size-wise? For those who are still learning these pumps, I'll leave my original reply here...

Sure, if you know how to sweat copper pipe. Anybody can put one of the PEX systems in without having any special tools or skills, other than being able to cut off the tubing cleanly and squarely.

But did you buy it? :confused: