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But where's the fun in doing things the right way? I learn more from screwing up than from having everything turn out alright.:lol_hitti

That one should be pretty good for what your needs are. I prefer a hone and sharpen approach myself but maybe it's just because I like sharp pointy things.:evil:

Ill fail. :lol: I do wish I'd pulled the trigger on the adjustable wrench but in truth it would just be another cool tool in the box, don't think I'd ever get around to using it.

A Biesemeyer fence is a thing of beauty, a JET fence is...well a decent fence but not a Biesemeyer. One day when my shop is complete I shall get a high quality table saw and upon it I shall find resting lazily, tantalizingly seductive in all her glory, a Biesemeyer 54" fence. I will have to...

I think this qualifies for a whole new level of suckage. May I suggest the OMEGA SUCKAGE AWARD! :bowdown:

A diamond stone would be the best but the good stones start at $50 a piece and can run as high as $500. You may be able to use Arkansas stones instead - good quality stones will only set you back at most $100.

As nice as many of the HF sockets are, I'd be wary of the swivels as I've seen them in person and have some doubts about their durability. Go with the Gray.

As of today I have 21 ratchets - many of them are finger and palm ratchets but I have several flex head, several extendable, several low profile, and one universal.

How's the battery life on the Makita? Every time I get interested in the Makita system I hear the horror stories about their batteries failing to hold charges quickly.

I love mine too - they are supposed to be compatible with the Ridgid Jobmax line which really is a nice selling point but in truth their heads are underpowered and overpriced, only the recip head seems decent enough to purchase.

A carbide plunge blade can do wonders on drywall, believe you me. I grant you that the Rotozip has a tremendous learning curve but if you treat it like a router (and really, that's all it is: a router with a spiral bit) you can manage it quite well.

Now I know what to do with my old PC 18v system! I switched to Ryobi 18v for the support and the quality of the tools seems equivalent - the saw is maybe a little weaker but not by much. Getting cordless tools on Ebay is touch and go - usually if it isn't a premium brand (read: Makita...

I agree with that. The new Rotozip's supposed to have a Dust Vault that reportedly can accomplish the same thing but I have my doubts - most dust elimination systems that are non vacuum based tend to fail at critical moments (for me at least).:lol:

Must have been a #11 blade (standard opening blade for surgeons) - wicked and very sharp but also incredibly effective.

Because the Dremel's VSR it's easier to control - a spiral saw usually starts at 25000 rpm and goes as high as 33000 rpm.

Air drill advantages - space (small), durability (nigh on indestructible), repetition (can drill for hours before overheating - generally speaking) Air drill deficits - dedicated compressor needed, slow RPM on larger chucked sizes Cordless drill advantages - portability (no compressor or cord...

I go with Taiwanese Pittsburgh Pro for most automotive tools (sockets, ratchets), Channelocks for pliers, Kobalt for screwdrivers (new ones are USA made!), and GW for wrenches/ratcheting wrenches.

The Dewalt at Sears seems better than the Dewalt elsewhere - maybe it's the selection (many more hand-tools) at Sears.

I see a lot of Craftsman and US General boxes in the OR where I work some of the time, not too many "pure" medical carts where I'm at I'm afraid.

I'll second that - I like my Spiral Saw (the Rototool) but it needs a jig to keep it from wandering all over the place. I love my OMT - make sure you get high quality blades (Bosch or Dremel tend to be good choices, Fein's are more expensive but also are pretty good) or you're going to pay more...