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My Advantage lift has the ALI Certification sticker on it.

I guess I’m not with it. My sump pit lives with a scrap piece of plywood siding I cut into a circle with a slot for the cord. It’s probably thirty years old. The sump is under the laundry tub, so you don’t really see it anyway. I think I removed the cover once, fifteen years ago, to replace...

I’m in the center of the rust universe and, until this spring, justified NOT buying one because I have an oxy acetylene torch setup. Finally accepted the fact, that, given there’s no exposed flame, perhaps the induction heater MIGHT be safer. After using it once, I now kick myself for not...

I bought a $150 generic 1300 watt Amazon induction heater this spring. No issues so far, and it works as I expected. I really don’t see any advantage to spending more than that on such a simple tool. I’ve used it a lot more than I expected, but I’m a hobby guy, not a 40 hr per week mechanic.

I have radiant in both my house and shop. It’s ok, but even with an outdoor reset, response is inadequate for days that it’s cool at night, ie the twenties, and warm, ie 60s / 70s during the day. Perhaps controlling off floor rather than air temperature would be better. Works well when it’s...

We’re about 250 miles north of the OP’s location, and I just installed a three ton (36k) BTU mini to cool the 32’x75’ x16’ high work area in my building with an additional 8k head in the 16x16x8 office / bathroom. It seems like three tons will be sufficient, but the warmest days are past for...

The fallacy is that US sourced materials and apparent beefy construction have very little to do with actual quality. You have to consider what I like to think of as economy of design, ie optimizing use of materials, as opposed to the old “build it stout”, or what one professor fifty years ago...

There shouldn’t be tension on the cables I’d the carriage is sitting on the locks. If there’s no tension, I suggest removing one pulley at a time, then add grease. Just be aware that some greases may not play well with bronze bushings. Synthetic should be fine, though. One of the little...

Sounds like the only way to get something that will provide a film in there is to remove the pulley and add some EP grease on the surfaces manually. The spray seems like a light oil that isn’t going to do much to provide a boundary layer that will actually prevent galling and metal to metal...

Offer them $500. I wouldn’t pay any more than that for a lift that’s at least 25, and perhaps closing in on fifty years old. Cables, sheaves (yes I know it’s chain drive), slides, pins, hoses, switches, and motors all have a finite life.

ACE, or its competitors, or a local glass shop.

He doesn’t. My dealer made it clear that he’d sell the blade, but because it’s not an authorized modification, Stihl won’t defend him when I initiate a lawsuit after I cut my foot off.

The pins on my Advantage 4 post. I don’t recall for sure, but I think they’re drilled, with an annular grove under the pulley bearing surface. Edit: I just checked my BP 10 K 2 post lift. And there doesn’t appear to be grease fittings on the pulley shaft. Is carriage is lifted directly by...

Grease. You use grease on tractor loader pins, which is a similar sliding member on a pin.

You want a vertical foam board at the form, at the very least. It takes a little more effort to insulate under the thickened edge, including the sloped portion that meets the slab, and I’ve seen it done both ways. Considering you’re using rebar anyway, a contractor with good attention to...

Same on my BP 10k. Pull the ring and the arms rotate without lowering the carriage, without the chassis sitting on the arm, of course. Still a pain compared to the four post. Still a lot of overhang with a CC 8’box Dually. A couple of good support stands, at least one at wash ends do...

Overhang Much more stabile on my 11k four post than on my 10k asymmetric. Plus no climbing around the posts to squeeze out of the cab.

I’ve had my Advantage for several years with no issues. For me, it was between Advantage and Wildfire. Came down to availability. I spoke with both. For what it’s worth, the Wildfire rep said his lifts had an extra support under the ramps welded in. I can’t verify that, though.

Inspection mirrors don’t work with bifocals. The foot method is clumsy and ineffective. Push the arm to your best guess…too far and get on your knees. Not far enough? Rinse and repeat I’ve had my two post for years. Do you think I haven’t tried all these “tricks”? A four post doesn’t...

I have both. Crawling on the floor to set the arms on the two post gets old fast, especially as you age. The posts are in the way of opening the doors, and lifting a lwb crew cab is sketchy, at best. A four post with a bridge jack is best if you can only have one.