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The best material for shop towels is 100% cotton. Polyester does not absorb anything well. The shop I worked in bought 100-lb bales of new 100% cotton T-shirt off-cuts from a commercial source, and we had a bin of them handy. You grabbed what you needed and tossed them when they were dirty.

You may or may not be able to go to 5/8. What I did was knock out the diamond in the blade and turn the arbor down to a close fit within the diamond. This will center the blade up at 4 points of contact inside the diamond.

I have the 8-1/4" version. I pulled the arbor off and turned the arbor down so it fits snugly in the diamond knock-out hole. It works fine. While you're in there, check the gearbox for enough lube. Mine was dry.

Ford is currently in the middle of rebuilding the Engineering Center. It looks like a war zone because of it. They are estimating that they'll spend around one billion dollars. Many of the areas I worked in are gone. I spent 35 years working there and retired in 2001. I live about 2 miles away...

No. There's something there for anyone who is technically minded. It is a fabulous event and it's a great way to spend a week for the whole family in the summer. Everyone camps and there's plenty of support including shower facilities and food services. I worked for Ford in Product Development...

I bought my T860MP in the 1990s at the EAA fly-in in Oshkosh WI. Snap-on had a booth in the commercial area.

I have an indexing 1/4" SO ratchet marked T860MP. It has a 60T ratchet.

When I began working flat rate in the early 1960s, the tool truck was one of the few places one could get credit. There were very few credit cards available, mainly Amex and Diner's Club, and oil companies cards for gas. It was mainly a cash and carry economy. A few stores had 90 days same as...

1970 was the last oil tank bike. The '71 and later were oil-in-frame, and it was actually a BSA frame. They tried to install the engine, and it didn't fit with the rocker boxes installed. Once they were removed, the engine fit, but they couldn't be installed later. A redesign was required.

After 1967, they moved the switch up to the forkhead, which was a better place. That switch probably had a key ring hanging from it for a long time, which wore it out. Some years, the headlight switch was down there as well.

Here's a pic of an AN-5741. 24 hour, 5 dials. https://www.ima-usa.com/products/original-u-s-wwii-army-air-forces-an-5741-1-8-day-five-dial-airship-cockpit-clock-by-hamilton-1?variant=31971478634565

It could just be missing a stud. They're removable.

Those look like extensions for a planer gauge.

The spindle appears to have a Morse taper socket. The slot is for the drift to remove the chuck. It's probably a #2 Morse taper.

It might have to do with where the forge tooling went when Ford was done with it. A die sinker would find it easy to put the Craftsman logo into the dies.

The Ford basic part number is 17017. The prefix identifies the type. 40-17017 is for 18 mm plugs. 01-7017 is for 14 mm plugs. and 52-17017 is for the V8-60. A-17017 is for the 7/8" thread Model A. The 52 prefix is probably the rarest one for obvious reasons.

Those are cylinder head bolt or nut and sparkplug wrenches. The bigger one is for a Ford Model A, and the smaller one could be for 18 mm or 14 mm plugs during the 1930s. They're copies of the Ford wrenches that came in the car's tool kit.

Ford didn't have adjustable tappets until 1954's OHV engines. They had flared ends on the valve stems and 2 piece guides. Clearance was set by grinding the end of the valve stem.

My '52 Willys M38A1 had self lockers, and so did an M38. A simple tappet change should be OK for an MB. I did a ring and valve job on a '48 Packard once, and it had self lockers. You had to remove the right front wheel, remove an access panel, and sit on the brake drum to adjust the valves on...

What Starrett probably did was cut the R into a tip when it was soft, then run it through heat treat.