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I like it... Speed Holes FTW...

I've been on the hunt for a vintage Delta 12" Disc / Finishing sander for quite a while... Next spring I'll be tackling a refurbish of my two wood garage doors (mid 1940's vintage)... When I get to the part where I need to miter cut the small individual door panel moulding trims, I'll be looking...

"Pierce".... HF, I see what you did right there...:LOL:

I have the 24kW Generac that has the G-Force 1000 series engine @ 999 cc The manual lists the torque for the valve cover as 10kW at 80 in-lbs and 20-24kW at 60 in-lbs. The manual only covers three engine sizes 460 cc, 816 cc and 999 cc, so yours wasn't listed at 992 cc??? To be sure, you can...

My JD Garden tractor radiator sprung a leak... Solder on the brass lower tank... Took it to a local heavy duty commercial truck repair shop that had their own radiator repair section... Three days later they called to say it was ready... They did a clean, resoldered the core, pressure tested and...

Earlier this year I put in a music system in the garage... I jerry-rigged the wiring for the speakers... Lots of zip ties across the ceiling... With wires drooping everywhere in the garage... It was way too hot for me to climb up in the space over the garage to hide the wiring above the...

Wish those Indians would make the mistake on the Milwaukee 11 Amp Deep Cut Variable Speed Band Saw 6232-21....

With my senaro the bottom panel would stay tight to the floor... Are you saying there is no weight keeping the bottom panel from lifting? Widening the top of the geometric wedge should push the top door panel, but the bottom panel can't lift off the floor for it to work...

When the door is in the closed position, the location of the top roller in the curved part of the track sets the panel sealing position... If the short link (in the picture example) were made longer, you will close the panel gap... If you can't make that link longer, can you make / add some...

Put the MINI up on the lift... Worked on replacing the serpentine belt... Pushed grease in the zerks on the rear adjustable control arms... Inspected for rust... Was happy none was evident on my 2009 MINI... Of course I don't drive it on the salty roads in the winter, so I guess that helps...

Took my Quickjacks off the wall and set them up in the garage... Read on GJ that QJ recommends they get used within about a 3 month period, to keep the rod seals lubricated... I did not know this... Threw a piece of plywood on top and ran the QJ up and down several times while sitting on it...

Quick Google search found this... Can't tell if yours is NC or NO https://www.finglai.com/products/contactors/contactors/CJX2/CJX2-1801-220V.html

Did a transmission fluid flush on my wife's Ford Explorer in preparation for a trip to Niagara on the Lake in Canada for a little R&R... We always stop by "Charlie the Butcher" in Buffalo NY.... Fantastic Beef on Weck... Charlie the butcher

Looks to be GE Digital Timer Switch In Wall Programmable 4 Modes Security GE5123B-71D Maybe search for a PDF manual on the web?

Was wondering if it was obvious....;)

Yesterday, I changed the earl and earl filter in my wife's Ford Explorer... Also changed the rear diff earl... Today I plan on changing the front PTU earl and the transmission earl... Hope to get an early start this morning...

Pencil rod tensioning clamp... Keeps wall from bowing during concrete pour...

Out in the garage today working on touching up a nasty rock chip on my wife's Explorer... Using the water based product from "Scratches Happen", so far it seems like a good product... We'll see how it performs long term... I also just received a dry sanding kit from Eagle Abrasives...

Looking forward to seeing the Dingo get a full GJ posted refurbishment...

You create the starter solution in the beginning (Nickel acetate)... Then as you nickel plate, you still use nickel as the anode... The nickel anode starts to deplete at the rate the nickel is transferred onto the item thats attached to the cathode... The solution doesn't have a lifespan per...