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Plenty of old school fans out there still with separate fan/ light wires for OP.

That's what I was wondering/ thinking. We get wifi fans now on new construction. We hand the instructions/ QR code/ etc to the buyers. There is no wifi on site yet.

Does the fan come with an optional type of remove where you slide the receiver in the fan canopy and wire black and white to the incoming wires and connect the black, blue, white (typical color coding) to the fan? Or is the remote built in where you can't bypass it? If you can't bypass it, I'd...

This gets my vote

I first bought a festool corded track saw. I then supplemented it with a DeWalt cordless track saw. Love it, and while the corded saw is a better saw, the convenience of the DW makes it the go to.

I know a lot of people who use this method, and I hear it works great. I've never used it I only use the tapcons with a hex head. I never had any luck with the phillips head. (Granted some installs will need flush type of phillips head, and in that case I'd use them.)

I agree, that room turns a nice big garage into a small feeling garage.. Keep it open.

Looking forward to watching this thread. Congrats on the permit and breaking ground.

I have a Klein set. Similar to this...

I'd make them out of wood. You can make them very strong for very little money. Cabinet grade plywood from HD or Lowes. Paint the plywood before you cut and assemble. That's what I did for some custom sized cabs in my garages. I had a friend make the doors, but you can order them online as well.

Damn, sorry to hear about your incident. Good post. I doubt I'll chain mine to the wall, but will definitely be mindful of opening only one drawer at a time.

I'm in the camp of cut it and forget it.

Porcelain tile would look great and last, if installed properly. Best choice, IMO. I didn't do it, but I may in the future. I opted for the quick and easy Racedeck original. I do some woodworking. No metal work and minimal automotive work. No way LVP will last, not even the best. I have...

A lot of systems have some feed to the 2nd zone when the 1st calls, and vice versa. Most installers design them that way. You either blow some air into the non-calling zone, or you install a bypass damper into the ductwok and it dumps back into the return. Better off dumping a small % into...

You don't want spray foam, but it's your best choice right now. I've never seen a roof framed like that.

I'm in the middle of this project. I wanted the T&G to look like it's structural 2" T&G. So obviously no trendy pattern. IDK if I'd go T&G for a trendy pattern like in the OP or some other posts. I like some of the patterns, I would maybe use something like the hardwood or a nickel gap...

Another vote here to plywood the ceiling. You're only talking 8 sheets. I'd use 1/2" fir plywood. It'll hold nails better than osb, and probably better than 3/4 advantec or whatever the hardwood was glued and nailed to.

Are you fully insulating the interior cavities, then have original sheathing/ siding/ new housewrap/ new 1" foam/ new Zip, followed by the new siding? If so, have you considered that you may have a problem with condensation at the original sheathing? I know this is veering off of op, but...

Unless you are framing houses, I think the stick nailer is a better choice. In the '90s we used coil nailers. Then the stick nailers were driving nails better, especially on LVL's. Then the coil nailers were improved so everyone went back to them. IMO, the stick nailers are just a better...

Why not remove the PVC board and paint all 4 sides? I'd either to that or wrap all 4 sides in PVC. Looks more like a 4x6 column, with a 1x4 PVC board on the 3 1/2" face leaving 3/8" reveal (although that could be the camera angle) not that that changes my response. How many posts are there?