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Good to hear about the NOCO pack's success. I have 2 of them, and 2 of the smaller GB70's. Losing a work van for even a couple hours wasn't worth not having these. (meaning if I have to do a round trip to jump one. I'd rather have one in each vehicle.) I've only used them a few times.

So how does all this institutional knowledge create the lot lines? I assume it doesn't. Get it surveyed.

This won't help, but I had the same hitachi pin nailer fail the same way.

I wouldn't do anything without getting the lot line surveyed. You may move it and find it still to be on the neighbor's property. And GIS shots are often inaccurate. One shows my property line going through my garage, which is not nearly the case. They can be off by 10' or more. As far as...

I guess I misread yuor OP. I thought you were constructing a foundation to a depth below the frost level. And was considering insulating the exterior foundation walls along with the slab. If you're doing a FPSF, you have to insulate as designed.

^^^THIS^^^^

Insulation isn't going to prevent frost heaves. Footings below frost depth and well draining gravel below the slab will do that. vertical insulation isn't going to keep the cold temp from migrating under the slab over the course of the winter. And 2" insulation under the slab isn't going to...

I vote for all 3/4" plywood. I'd dado the bottom into at least the sides, probably into the front and back, as well. i'd dado the back into the sides. I'd dado the front into the sides. Glue and screw all the dado joints. Just with something as simple as drywall srcrews. These screws will...

You can do what Chuckster said. It's better than leaving it as-is, but it'll be fine if you leave it as-is. Edit: you can do what rlitman suggested. I wouldn't bother.

drywallers did a nice job. They use 1 1/4" screws here all the time for 5/8" I may have missed it, but why did you use 5/8" drywall? Insulator did a lousy job, but it'll be fine. The paper should have ovelapped the studs and have been stapled. And you shouldn't need to follow up with your...

I replaced my Liftmaster belt drive operators for the jack shaft models. Night and day difference. Opens up the ceiling whent he doors are down. I have an 18' x 10 door and a 9' x 10. And the belt drives were in perfect condition. I relocated one to a shop I rent which didn't have an...

I've regularly heard it referred to as 110/ 220 vs. 120/ 240V over my career/ life. I think my father still occasionally calls it 110/ 220. He's been an electricain since the early '60's. (as well as a certified IAEI wiring inspector from the early '90's) We all know the power companies...

Even licensed electricians "shouldn't" change devices when energized. That said, we all do it. That tool looks useful. I would highly recommend the OP change the device de-energized.

I think OP is installing a plug to run a cord to the portable compressor. I wouldn't put a #12 on a 30 in this case. And at 13.1 amps, a 20A 240V receptacle should be fine.

It seems you have asphalt over crumbling conctrete and you want to put the recycled asphalt on top? At best, it is a band-aid. Do it and let it last for however it will, possibly pass it on to the next person, or do it right and dig it out. Nobody wants to dig it out because it's the most...

With limited info, i'd keep it cord and plug connected, for now, from a GFCI protected receptacle. Certainly lots of permanent power solutions, but I'd wait until the use is evaluated.

Thank you, I didn't realize he hadn't posted the reference, I need to read more thoroughly. I appreciate the posting, the language is consistent between the 2 standards. edit: fixed the post you referenced, and this Mike Holt video should clear up the points that both Firebrick and I were...

Glad OP figured out things. I wouldn't hesitate to use a field connected cord cap. The have weather proof ones, as Dave said. But how long is the generator cord? The 25' 30 Amp molded cords are not that expensive. I bought a fairly cheap, no-name one, on Amazon recently. (This was for a...

@Firebrick43 The first citation, 7.12.1.1 states "likely to become energized". "likely to become energized" is if the appliance or equipment has power to it. As far as CSST, the black coated and their fittings are rated as bonding, the yellow is not. At least as of a few years ago. A...

If I were building a small shed like this and it was close enough to grade, I'd double or triple the PT bottom plate, and I'd wrap the bottom with a Pvc water table. And start the sheathing above that. Lots of small details on how to do that.