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12' would be better for a lift if you can do it. Have you considered a flush mounted scissor lift?

I suppose it depends on your local population, but my mice jumped out of the bucket trap and the glue traps weren't sticky enough to hold them. I found a cat the most effective deterrent.

Cost to find out what the shop says is the time to locate a phone number plus $0.00.

If you do it carefully, you can dig out the entire basement. Underpin the exterior wall in sections until you have a full foundation underneath and you're done. General rules of thumb are heavily dependent on soil type. In a heavy, dense soil, a one to one ratio is generally fine i.e. stay 1'...

Alternator/starter/motor repair shop would probably rebuild it for less than the cost of new and you'd be supporting a small business in the process.

Mike's suggestion is good. A margin trowel is also super handy in tight spots. A shop vac can save you a lot of time, too. Just loosen the material and then **** it out.

I would cut flush on the bell end of the hub then as far past the damage as necessary to get to undamaged pipe. Try to do as much as possible with the angle grinder. The diamond blade on the sawzall will work fine for the rest. High speed so it can't grab and shake things around. Excavate enough...

Saw to produce a nice pair of break lines then remove what's left between the lines however you find most convenient. A wider trench is easier to work in than a narrower one. 18" is about the narrowest you're going to want to work in. All of those cheap sewer cameras I've seen are junk. I have...

A lower pitched roof would allow taller side walls. You can always bring something shorter in through a taller door. Something taller won't easily fit through a shorter door. Other styles of doors may be worth consideration.

Having experience with both, I would go with flat. The smooth entry is glorious if your weather will permit it. You'll find out just how short that 10' ceiling is when you start moving around 8' long lumber and sheet goods. If planning on car maintenance, I would try to acquire the lift in...

Sharkbites are very handy. I've used them plenty of times, but only in temporary situations or where they remain fully exposed forever and where if they fail the mess will be manageable and damage minimal. A kitchen is not one of these places. Your plumbing is all exposed right now so there is...

If 25' if the max height at the peak and you end up with a 4/12 pitch roof, you'll end up with a 20' max sidewall height. You're going to lose a foot to the second floor structure. If everyone is okay with a building this size you could have an entire second floor inside. Scissor trusses will...

Just call that your tuition and move on. No need to beat yourself up over it. For future reference, you only pay for work that has been completed, not started. Anyone who requires payment in advance is someone you don't want to hire. Once you let go of the money you're at their mercy. Anyone...

If both doors are open aren't you defeating the purpose of putting the compressor in the sound insulating room? Refrigerators keep cold out just as well as they keep it in. Pick up a small refrigerator off the curb for your batteries. A thermostat and small light bulb will take care of the low...

I've never installed one like that, but you're probably right. Could be code in his area.

Why not just build it with the offending wall at a very slight diagonal to accommodate whatever regulatory stupidity needs accommodated? On his plan they are clearly going off the exterior footprint of the building for the setbacks. That sewer line and electric service can easily be moved a...

Conduit appears to be duct taped to a piece of rebar? I want to move that inside the wall where it belongs, but it's not worth the effort on a slab. Just notch the cabinet around it and call it good. You'll never know it's there once the cabinet is installed. I'd need to fix the cold supply loop...

The countertop people typically provide the underlayment for the countertop. I would not want to provide the underlayment if I was not the one doing the quartz. I would politely tell them the plywood is part of their job. You should properly close in the wall with drywall, tape, mud, etc.

Remove the drywall concealing the plumbing so you can see what you're dealing with. GFCI outlets are pricey. That is clearly a 15 amp outlet. It may (should) be on a 20 amp circuit. You an always put a 15 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit. You can't go the other way.

What's the end game here? Are you planning to put this line back in service? I see what looks like a rectangular hole cut out of the top of your second picture that has been patched with concrete. That tee, such as it is, looks highly suspect. You should remove the house trap. If your cast iron...