Search results

-Eklind does make ball end in a T-handle set for both inch and metric. A T-handle is sometimes a better choice.

-I'd agree with your post but the OP hasn't given us an update. There's been a few posts from others offering advice but the OP has neither followed that advice, asked for more info, and perhaps hasn't bothered to research this problem like I suggested. Not throwing rocks, just pointing out that...

-The ball-end hex keys are not nearly as strong as the regular ended ones due to the smaller cross section at the neck. I only mention this because it's not obvious to everyone and the numerous reports of the ball breaking off means it's not obvious to everyone. Regular ended hex keys should be...

-Got tired of being nice to it huh? Been there too, hope it went well.

-When using an abrasive disk your technique makes a huge difference in the outcome. You can't just plow into the material and expect it to stand up to the loading, pressure, and flex. The Dremel type moto-tool isn't capable of that sort of operation without being mindful of how underpowered the...

-"Precise" is a relative term but your desire for accuracy from a hand held device are likely too high. You'd have to post your expectations of tolerance to comment on. -"Exact fit" hints at what you want but numbers and application would get better replies/suggestions -Using only hand control...

-I was a tool and die maker for Eklind and was very involved with the ball driver project in 1995. I can't say for certain that they're still made by Eklind but I see no reason that they wouldn't be. They moved the entire factory from the Chicago location to one of the nearby suburbs after I...

It may sound silly but carboard is your least expensive and most adaptable material. Yes there are plexiglass/metal guards and trays to direct/collect the chips but most don't quite fit as well as something you construct yourself. In the machine shop I used cardboard, cut to fit when needed, on...

^ This (above post) should be the first thing to evaluate. Red lights generally indicate one "eye" is not seeing the other. Clear any obstructions/spiderwebs from the eyes and clean them off.

-Moments like that do feel like a bad dream you want to awake from. My condolences to you and your family for your loss. Please pay a bit more attention to your own safety for the next few weeks. We're here if you want to talk, vent, or even just have a distracting chat for a few minutes. Keep a...

-For carbs I try to use the low strength (222 purple) Loctite, it's made for small diameter fasteners that don't require much torque but still prevent the fastener from backing off. Been using for years of motorcycle carbs, no problems.

-Highly unlikely that it's SS if powder coated. Should be mild steel (low carbon content) and much easier to drill than SS. -"Mild steel" means a lower carbon content than high carbon or alloy steel. Less expensive, easier to form/bend/machine and what most things are made from that don't...

-Some exercise equipment is chromed, if so the chrome will present a little difficulty in that it can dull the cutting edges and possibly burn the bit itself. Once below the chrome layer the mild steel should be no problem provided your bit is properly sharpened. Stainless steel will be...

-Whatever you get try to make sure the lens is made of glass not plastic. The light gathering ability in glass is usually superior to the plastic lenses I've seen/used. Even with the Optivisor there's a noticeable difference between the glass and plastic lenses they use. There's a price...

-Nice of you to join, glad we could help you with the sale. :rolleyes: -Not surprised

-There are abrasive cut-off wheels that are regularly used in surface grinders. Several different compositions and thicknesses. If the center hole (several diameters) are close enough I'd say they'll hold up (no side loading). Surface grinders (and tool grinders) are higher RPM's than any hand...

-Most certainly has, I was responding to the post above mine about the techniques employed. This is a necro thread but incomplete or bad advice warrants a reply for those readers that don't do the research/homework. Thanks for pointing out the non-current timeline.

McMaster is almost always more expensive on everything. Try searching for industrial supply houses like Travers Tool or anyplace that caters to machine shops. Price for an 11/32 (8.71mm) left hand drill was under $15 last time I checked.

-As a long time metal worker (sheet and otherwise) that's not always good advice or a general rule of thumb.

....