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Have a good friend who used to professionally race his GTV out in the Pacific northwest, restore a bunch more, he too prefers the car without the front bumper. As for me, I'm waiting to move in to the new place before adding another TR250, TR6, or Sunbeam Tiger to the equation. Bill S.

Color on the GTV is a major progress, it will all seem so easy after that . Bill S.

Before you do anything else, ask the original builder for the manufacturers engineering sheet on the building, blue prints at the very least (which will list the manufacturer/supplier). Then contact the manufacturer/supplier and see what the specs are rated for if not shown on the engineering...

Lot's of progress this week, painters have finished prep, primed, and have first color coats on 90% of the interior walls. Walked through around 7:30pm tonight with just our cell phone lights, strictly spur of the moment, so no pics. Will get in there tomorrow if the paint crew is not there...

Corrugated metal sheets mounted perpendicular to the framing.

Lots of minor updates, lots of trim, lots of wall and ceiling work to smooth everything out for the painters, who should have been in last week, but are now delayed another few days. Looks like we have a first coat of ceiling paint, maybe just a guide coat, but it is all one color as of...

As stated above, the tree needs to come out, and the stump dug out, not ground down, or you will eventually have a void under the new slab that could cause trouble a few years down the road. Since you are going to have a backhoe or some type of heavy equipment in the yard to do the site prep...

Keep it simple and easy to work with: I recommend a DeVilbiss 130525 QC3 air filter and dryer Bill S.

In that case the OP could really use a simple 3 stage, industrial grade, in line coalescing filter and desiccant air dryer combination. Figure somewhere between $185-$300 depending on the quality. Bill S.

We bought our last house in the northeast with a finished basement, and like you and your son, could not find a shut off valve for the outside spigots inside. While visiting with the neighbors, I made a comment about it and asked if they had shut offs for theirs, they then showed me theirs...

Oldtimers is setting in :headscrat

Missed that, thanks. Maybe solar is the way for the OP to go in the long run. Bill S.

THIS!!!!! Not sure about others, but Duke will pull power, at their cost, to wherever they decide to place the meter. In our case, to the house. They are then responsible for the underground utility up to the meter. Have a problem, between the meter and the street, it is on them. Again, worth...

Your entire shop will be covered in overspray, no matter how big an exhaust fan you have. Given you wants, your needs will be the open space with the following calculations: height(H) x width(W) then x 100 feet per minute (FPM) to come up with the cubic feet per minute (CFM) of the explosive...

This is done to keep spammers at bay, but if you click your profile, you can find your post, even in it's "awaiting approval" status. Bill S.

Your friend knows it all has to come off, the rear can be sanded down to the base, as that is all that failed there, the front of the car needs to be stripped to bare meta, as there are signs of water contamination which caused the paint to fail in a wholesale fashion. I see 4-8hours of prep by...

Regardless of what you do for paint, you'll still need to remove the failing paint, as you never know if the clear coats chemical bond is failing off the base, or if the bases chemical bond is failing, causing the clear to flake off. Or worse, the car has had previous paint work, and the...

Typical municipal water pressure at the meter is anywhere from 40-80psi, so 100psi should be just fine. You can buy an inexpensive pressure gauge to screw in to the end of a hose to check yours. Now, with that said, most plumbing fixtures do not want more than 65-70psi, otherwise, you risk...

Bathroom vanity counters are in. Not much else to show pictures of, lots of spackle, lots of trim. Bill S.

Times 2, perhaps instead of doing anything else, you resize the duct, and move the vent to another area in the room that will not be a conflict with your current setup. This is what I was going towards when I asked the questions above. Bill S.