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If he gives them duct tape they will never use any of the tools.

A cheap digital caliper. Really the only way to get accurate inside and outside diameters on hardware and parts. I use my cheap HF caliper all the time.

I set up one of these on one of my shop vacs. I was amazed at how well it works. Absolutely no dust in the vac drum, it all goes into the 5 gal cyclone bucket. The vac stays so clean, I decided to store the vac wheels inside. The vac and cyclone bucket both ride on a custom made rolling dolly.

My 2 cents, DeWalt gets dirty faster.

Poplar usually has green streaks running through it and is usually considered a paint grade. Maple would probably be the most expensive option, is it likely you would have gone for the big bucks when you bought it? My guess is red oak but without a real closeup of the grain, it's impossible to...

HD also calls some of their interior finish sanded plywood Whitewood.

I dunno about that but I had a neighbor who owned a fuel oil business. He would fill his truck fuel tanks right from the #2 oil hose. He said the trucks ran better on it.

My router table is 2X2 old solid core birch cabinet door, It gets screwed to two horses when it comes out which is not often. Height is just about waist or a little above. I wouldn't want it too close to my face.

Sometimes when something is considered "on sale" they will deny the 20%. Usually if there is a red on sale tag on the shelf but it's always worth a try.

I have tried paste wax and silicone spray. It still stuck.

I remember buying a belt at a festival or flea market years ago. The guy made the belts to order on the spot and he used one of those to cut the belt from a large sheet of leather.

I ran several thousand 1 1/4" staples through this on some 1/4" underlayment. I found I had to run it at higher pressure than they recommend to drive them flush. I bought the brad only gun because I got tired of the big indent the staple combo gun put in finish work. They were both less than $20...

Clamp or zip tie a wood or PVC extension to the pole, zip tie the trigger down and have your helper plug it in when ready to cut.

This would get you close to the crank. https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Triangle-Cycling-Corner/dp/B00SA4KSPA

When I first posted to this thread, I didn't realize that Cali actually sells the Tightbond line of adhesives. That may well be the biggest reason they recommend its use.

You can fit a lotta stuff on a bike. https://www.amusingplanet.com/2010/09/chinas-overloaded-bicycle-carriers.html

Never used the Titebond, PL does have a great reputation, it's good stuff but if the Titebond is readily available and that's what the manufacturer recommends, I would go with that. They are probably almost identical but Titebond says "fast grab". Maybe that's the reason. Could also be some...

I picked up 2 of these several years ago on clearance for $10. Not for pushing but if you have to pick up and throw snow, it can't be beat, no bending over. I don't know if they are available anymore, if they ever break beyond repair I will attach a second handle to a stock shovel to duplicate it.

I have had one of the plain auto darkening ones without the flame decals for going on 10 years now. Always worked great, never a problem. Use it 5 or 6 times a year. I'm guessing it has a battery in it somewhere that I should change but I haven't found or even looked for the battery door yet.

Or use the savings to pay the chiropractor.