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Thinking about getting one of these bits and just drilling and tapping the boxes for wires instead of using the self grounding stuff. Greenlee DTAP10-32 Combination Drill and Tap Bit, 10-32NF...

Nice post and thanks for the explanation. Further question: I have an outlet that apparently is not a "self grounding", but I installed it and my tester shows a proper ground, which thinking about it makes sense as the flange is metal and does contact the box. Is this an effective ground...

I wonder how many electricians do their own taxes or keep their own books?

Paper? I thought it was a brush or mop type of thing? It needs to look good. Have you successfully used balled up paper?

God, I haven't seen any tamper resistant that wouldn't be better labeled "use resistant"! So, self grounding is sufficient without the grounding clip? Thanks again.

The attached photo shows a bad repair in a basement ceiling. Is there a way to repair this and match the ceiling texture? What brush was used here? Is there any way to make this disappear short of removing the entire ceiling texture? Thanks

No yoke in box. The AC comes in with a connector, like an EMT connector. Set screw outside the box and a nut on the inside like an EMT connector. That is all that is in the boxes. I guess I could use grounding clips on the boxes - just want to make sure it is required. Seems redundant...

So, if I install 3 prong grounded receptacles, do I need to run a ground to the box? Or will the receptacle contact to the metal box suffice? I don't think the boxes have holes for a ground screw.....

Super! Thanks Norcal. I had researched and was thinking that was right, but wanted a knowledgeable person to confirm this. I have read a lot of your comments and learned a lot from reading in this forum and having you confirm this puts my mind at ease.

My 1960 house has armored cable for most of the wiring. The armored cable has a positive and neutral wire but also a smaller, unsheathed, probably aluminum wire that is not connected to anything. I get a good ground reading from the receptacles. I understand that 2 wire BX without the third...

Install scheduled for Tuesday. Will be glad to see the old FPE panel gone.

Well, they just called and were trying to tell me they couldn't honor the $1736 price with the upgraded box because they could only get it special order from Atlanta and it wasn't available locally. Only, too bad for them, I went to Lowes to Lowes this morning and they have several of the 40/40...

THe other side of that wall is a brick wall with the fireplace in the family room. I would not want the box there.

Yeah, the two quotes I have are $1836 and $1736. I plan on going with the $1836 company, but they agreed to match the lower price, and to change the quoted box to a 40/40 siemens box with copper bus - they are trying to locate one as apparently that is a rare box around here. I thought it...

Here is my existing panel -

Yeah, I think the cost is not crazy different and the PL series with copper has lifetime warranty vs. SE with aluminum is just 10 years. I mean, I am spending $1500-$1800 to have this done, so why cheap out on the panel?

Put in my location info - sorry. I agree that the garage journal has been super helpful in making decisions. I have been a long time garage journal reader. I will try to get some pics tonight. It is a 1960 FPE stab-lok. I really wish it weren't an FPE and I really wish it were indoors, but...

Thanks!

Going with a Siemens load center. Choice is between the ES series that has aluminum bus and PL series that uses copper bus. The PL series is a little more expensive, but not terribly given the overall cost of the panel replacement. I believe that copper is generally a better bus material but...

I think I am going to go with the company using Siemens. Now the question is - copper or aluminium bus bars for outdoor installation. I think copper is generally better but is it true in outdoor environments?