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It’s been raining here, so I haven’t gotten out to the roof for more pics. Friend of mine got out there while I was at work, said he can see the tyvek from the original build where the roof meets the wall. I will encourage the builders to put step flashing in, at least, and see where it goes...

I’m in Buffalo NY, everyone who worked on the job grew up within 20 miles of here. I’m hoping it was an oversight that they’ll make right.

I was a laborer for a while, been on many roofs... I knew it didn’t feel right, but I haven’t done that stuff since I was a kid. The step flashing looks like I would have expected here. They will be at my house on Monday or Tuesday and I’ll ask why they didn’t do any step flashing and see what...

I’ll be in touch with the owner of the company tomorrow. I’ll send him the pics and hope he makes it right.

You’re tying my stomach into knots.

Roof and walls are OSB, 2nd floor is plywood t&g

Thank you all for the help so far. The new roof is the lower of the 2 in that picture. I’ll get a better picture tomorrow, and probably some video. I agree, calling back the contractor may not correct the problem, thinking I’ll just call a roofer.

Hi All, New garage addition has a leak. Pic of where the water is coming from the seam on the wall. That’s (2) 2x6 attached to the pre-existing wall supporting the roof in the other pic. Where the new build meets the existing structure there is some flashing under the gutter and some siding...

Wyze has been working great for me.

The fumes from a gas can typically rise to the level of the low outlets, if I recall correctly... I believe the context is for certain non-ventilated spaces in commercial garages. I have no problem getting rid of the 18" outlets if I have to, just more convenient if I have a table or workbench...

Thanks Jake... Wiring in the soffit is on my list! I'm hung up on speaker wire now... I don't know where I'm putting the stereo or the speakers... ugh

It’ll be on the side of the garage by the man door, not on the front by the overhead. Same goes for the back of the garage.

Thanks for the heads up on the 10 vs 12. When you say accurate assessment of the demand, am I underestimating? Or because I only made reference to the watts I’m overestimating? The bulk of the system can probably run on a single 20A run. I’ll have ~3000 watts for the subs, another 1000 for...

Great idea. I use the ones built into my toolbox all of the time. It will be on the opposite wall of the workbench, so that will be a good place to put them. I believe what I have is 1.5hp and is on its way out. I don't know that I would go up to 3hp, but that is good to know. If the right...

I gotta look into the central vac and see if it’ll work for me.

Excellent List! Will be taking that into the garage with me. I put a full 2nd floor above it and a 6’ walkable attic above that, so I will have several chases going up. I am considering 2 splits, and I assumed the power was going to be at the condenser, but haven’t actually researched yet...

I do have the garage opener outlet, but I like the other suggestions. Will plan those out tomorrow, thanks.

Hi Guys, Wiring up my 18x40 attached garage before I insulate and drywall. I have outlets high and low, and in the ceiling for lights. I’ll be putting a 240 by the box, and making an extension cord for it. May put another one where my compressor is going so I can upgrade in the future...

WD has worked for me in the past. Maybe a good place to ask, every other use or so, I spray for 1/2 second in my air tools too... since I don't use any oil on them. Causing more harm than good?

Just bought my 2nd Pan Cam from WYZE. So far so good. This one will go inside the shop so I can see if my Liftmaster is flaking out, and it'll alert me when the door opens/closes.