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Amazon. I just looked it up and now it's even cheaper than what I paid. :sad: They have a big selection of materials and finishes. I just wanted the stainless.

Were you able to get a clean cut, or did it tear the rubber?

I bought a stack of those TSC stall mats for my indoor workshop. They are heavy as hell and feel like they will hold up to pretty much anything. I will need to trim down a couple to fit them around walls. Any idea if a reciprocating saw would cut them well? If so, what kind of blade?

I picked up a stainless Starr X opener a bit before Christmas. Not nearly as cool as most listed here, but it does the job.

Check into Steelwater Safes for a gun-specific safe. They aren't made in the US, but the specs are much higher than comparably-priced Libertys, from my research. Good reviews too. If your safe doesn't have to be billed as a "gun safe", check out Craigslist. You can find some really badass...

I always put the silver stuff on wheel/rotor mating surfaces. It took me way to long to beat the old rotors off my wife's car the first time I replaced them. Now they come off without any problem.

I don't know about that. She doesn't look a day over 20...

You got an amazing deal on that safe! The best thing you can do is anchor it to the floor so that it can't be tipped/moved. I don't know about your garage, but if you have a corner to place it in where the walls/structure around it can't be easily torn out from the outside, that would be a...

This is why you use two ladders and a helper... Here is the reinforced door attachment. There is a matching piece of flat stock on the back side of the door sheet metal. Here is the motor unit and the mounting I made for it. I finished painting it after the photo.

I just did that job with the belt-drive version of that opener earlier this year. Having two 8' ladders would have been handy when getting it setup, and a second set of hands would have been better still. I did it solo with a 6' ladder (8'6" ceiling), and it took a lot longer than necessary...

Fenix LD10 in the garage (very short, so it fits everywhere in an engine bay) and E21 for work/car/nightstand/everywhere else. I just picked up an HL30 recently for hands-free use, but haven't put it into action yet.

I have a 20'x20' myself and put 5 8' (4x4') fixtures in this past spring. That is a total of 20 4' tubes. I find that that is plenty for wrenching. I wired mine with 4 of the fixtures on one switch and the fifth on another. That way, if I'm just popping out to the garage to get a tool or...

BMW uses them all over the drive line. FWIW, BMW also uses E11 bolts sometimes, the socket for which is not generally included in these sets. I had to buy a single Snap-On E11 at one point simply because I couldn't find anyone else who made one.

I agree with the tablet idea. Much easier to clean than a keyboard and you can replace it for a lot less.

I haven't had any problems with Behr paint. In fact, I have been able to get away with single coats unless the previous paint had "crackle" finish applied. :mad:

I think it says somewhere on the can that it isn't intended to be left in there beyond the time it takes to get somewhere to have the tire replaced. That sort of warning was enough to turn me off of keeping the stuff around, even for an emergency.

Does this require a specific "coldfire" extinguisher, or could it be done when recharging any old water extinguisher?

Go at least 10'. My walls are 8.5' and it's a massive PITA to move a 4x8 sheet around.

If the cabinets are attached to the walls sufficiently, that 1x2 isn't doing anything for you. If you were concerned with having extra support for the cabinet (beyond whatever you used to mount the cabinets), then you would want to support the bottom of the cabinet towards the front, not the rear.

Re: Shevling modification If it is attached solidly to the walls, it would probably be fine with those modifications. If not, I would be a little worried about lateral stability.