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No beam. I didn't even know about split beam torque wrenches until your post. That Icon looks nice, and I love the flex head - definitely been times where I had to skip the torque wrench because no access with a fixed head.

Check out some videos on Youtube on using a bib kit. No need for disassembly.

I'll have to look into this Hyperheat unit. Seems like you solved a similar problem/layout. I like the idea of individual minisplits for the bedrooms so everyone can tailor the temp to their liking. And the LR/DR/kitchen could be served by one large unit, and this is also the side of the house...

Are the failures with ductless mostly with the head units? If so, I imagine head units can be purchased separately? I guess the hassle is pulling a vacuum and recharging refrigerant? I've seen videos of HVAC techs using "bib kits' to deep clean head units.

I love the EZ Lock discs. But beware that there are fakes on ebay. Bought a pack of 5 and every one of them tore out the center metal hub very early in life of disc. Meanwhile with genuine Dremel EZ Locks, I can reliably wear the entire disc down to a nub. Dremels and similar tools are very...

My old central AC is 40yrs old and dying (leak somewhere, maybe the coils, so it's a little low on R22). Trying to decide - replace with inverter style central air unit or go with multiple minisplits. I've heard from HVAC techs that new central air units can be expected to last 10-15yrs, and...

Under $100. HF has a Quinn clicker for $70 ($50 on sale): https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-20-to-100-ft-lb-click-torque-wrench-58994.html That might be interesting.

Why would a Toyota dealership's parts dept have 5/16-24? Practically everything on Toyotas apart from spark plugs are metric. They were loose, not in a package. Pic of nuts - new ones from dealer on left (top two didn't strip, bottom 3 did strip), factory originals on the right. They look like...

Something like 15-80 ft-lbs.

I have a Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 3/8" torque wrench and I'd like to get a better, but still inexpensive wrench. I don't use torque wrenches often enough to justify spending $100 on one. The HF model I have once failed me (no detectable click), resulting in a snapped fastener, so I'm very...

Toyota 2AZ-FE engine. 27 ft-lbs or 37 Newton meters. This is what Toyota publishes (screenshot from Toyota service manual, not third party manual). I agree, it does seem like a lot for a small diameter stud and does make me nervous given that snapping a stud here would create a lot of extra work...

Yes, I was able to get them all started by hand, and nearly had 2 of them to torque spec of 27ft-lbs (and those 2 easily went onto my M8x1.25 tap), so definitely the correct size. And they are exhaust manifold nuts with the wobbly captured washer (not sure what correct term is).

Update: So I fully removed the nuts and I was mistaken. @PCustoms was right to want to see the stud in full. And the guys who said they'd never seen exhaust studs strip like this were on the right track. It was the brand new Toyota OEM nuts, purchased from a local Toyota dealer. 3 of them...

Yeah, that's probably what happened. I did hit it quickly with a wire brush, but access all the way around the stud isn't great. Lesson learned.

I'll take a pic tomorrow but the metal that you're seeing removed and off to the side is from the stud, not from the nut. I don't think there's any hope of chasing the stud's threads and making them usable. Nut was new Toyota OEM - M8 1.25 I think.

Yeah I'm thinking welding a nut on there may get more heat into the stud than my MAPP pro torch. But scared of snapping it and creating a bigger problem. Might have to call in a pro for this.

No the nut is not stuck. I need to get the stud out of the head so I can replace it.

Didn't even know what that was until I read your post. So that's how these studs are installed. Man, that torx section is so short and narrow, seems like it would round or snap off with any resistance.

See pic in OP. The exhaust manifold stud is stripped.

I've got a MAPP-Pro torch - so torch the head around the stud and then quench the stud? The torch won't warp the aluminum head?