Search results

5.5" slab with rebar on 1' centers on stands. No saw cuts. no anchors. Except for lift which was planned ahead. Pex in center of slab for best performance.

Milton design is same as what I was taught in school 30 years ago. Only thing that has changes is people who think they are smarter than 100 years of success. I am dreading setting up my system because of costs and pia. I am leaning to iron pipe which assures I will only have to do it once...

I am literately to cheap to buy a used snap on. I bought a deep double bay Extreme. Still more than i paid for all my boxes together.

Why not put a second bottom plate on top overhanging by 3/8 to make outside straight?

Love my bend pack operation. But if you buy Bend Pack just expect it to be damaged. The packaging is cheap and is basically ****. I should have sent mine back but it is a job just getting it off the truck and I was excited to get it, my bad. It is way too easy to blame all the damage on the...

My guess is you tank is in the garage because of risk of freezing. Trust me there is nothing worse than having a severe house problem outside during the coldest nights.

Not sure how much insulation you want, but I used 1.5" rigid between the perlins, 2x4 wall with 1.5 x 1.5" rigid foam behind studs. Put 6" bat insulation between the studs and 5/8 drywall standing on end. No end-joints to feather. The cavity behind the studs is also a good place to run...

Just looked at local Menards price for 250 psi 2"foam. $27 a sheet. Outrageous! 4 or 5 years ago it was in the high teens. I thought the price might go down when oil did but so far, No.

Using hot rolled steel, leave the dark scale on the dark squares grind/sand the light squares. Coat with clear.

Lacquer thinner.

Span would be OK. But I think it would depend what else will be mounted to ceiling. Lights, electric, air? I had 8' span and reduced to 2.8' for mounting lights and other things.

If you are not heating or cooling it why use anything at all?

Mine is vapor barrier, 2" foam, 3/8" rebar on 1' centers on 2 1/2" stands. 6" slab. No saw cuts. Rock side is vapor barrier, landscape fabric, rock.

Even if you do not heat I would use 1-1/2" foam on walls to help steel from sweating. Good moisture barrier under floor. For several years my dirt floor barn was a rust experiment.

Big shop! Drains are a PIA due to EPA codes. Heat? 14 ft good Idea. My 12ft became 11'3" when floor was poured. Had to modify truss to get lift to fit. Insulate roof and use screws not nails. Try to schedule build during good weather. Mine was built late fall and corners were cut...

Caution! If you use any power sprayer be mindful of items that you don't want stain on. Atomized stain can travel in the air a long way 10-25'. A lot bigger job when you have to stop in the middle and clean something you didn't intend on staining. That used oil and thinner looks interesting...

I think you will be fine if your 2x material that contacts concrete is pressure treated. Pinning or bolting could be easily accomplished before pour or after. If you Jack it up, say 3/4 of an inch too high, pour crete and then lower 3/4 into crete you may be able to eliminate air gaps between...

Just remember that a spark that will role off your arm and not burn will somehow land on a glass surface, stick, and burn into the glass ruining the surface. This can be expensive if it is not yo glass!

I think I just gave up seeing it and went by feel. That was hard enough.

Just got 6 at car quest for around 28/ea. Wholesale I think.