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Corrugated metal ceiling
- Thread starter Dspurlo81
- Start date
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I would put strapping across all of the trusses, then hang the ceiling on that. 5' is a heck of a span with no support. I think you would get some sort of a sag in between even though the corrugations are running perpendicular to the trusses.
Rookie2
Well-known member
the panels will be fine just screw them to the truss.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
the panels will be fine just screw them to the truss.
They will be fine. If your worried buy 1.5" rib Tin instead of the normal 3/4
rieferman
Well-known member
I too think they'll probably be fine just attached to the trusses, but if it were me, I'd run 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses at 24" on center and affix the steel to those.
As for panels overlapping, I would have ends fastened to something solid rather than floating. The approach I mention above would allow you many fastening spots to accomplish this.
The 2x4 furring strips will also provide lots of flexibility for hanging lights and ceiling fans etc.
Just my 2 cents
As for panels overlapping, I would have ends fastened to something solid rather than floating. The approach I mention above would allow you many fastening spots to accomplish this.
The 2x4 furring strips will also provide lots of flexibility for hanging lights and ceiling fans etc.
Just my 2 cents
volleyball
Well-known member
They will sag. If you can live with it, then fine. If not, install some purlins. If there is any chance someone would possibly walk on it, lots of purlins.
1grnlwn
Well-known member
Span would be OK. But I think it would depend what else will be mounted to ceiling. Lights, electric, air? I had 8' span and reduced to 2.8' for mounting lights and other things.
smokem2020
Well-known member
As long as your steel able to hit 3 trusses you will be good. My garage was 8 ft on center trusses and I used 16' 4" long steel. I blew in 20 inches of insulation. No problems. I would use a string when installing steel. No one wants crooked ribs.
volvo
Well-known member
..
x2, will be ok, Use the correct screws & length. My RV cover is five rib on 5' centers and easily holds up 300lb guys on it and came with an engineer stamp for 26 lb sf snow load.
x2, will be ok, Use the correct screws & length. My RV cover is five rib on 5' centers and easily holds up 300lb guys on it and came with an engineer stamp for 26 lb sf snow load.
jwith68
Well-known member
Are we talking about true corrugated metal here, or 5 rib? If we are talking about 5 rib with 3/4" ribs, 5' span with only insulation blown over the top will be no issue whatsoever. You won't be able to see any sag at all. Do as bullnerd says about ending panels on a truss and overlap a few inches, just like you would in an exterior application for a wall or roof.
6768rogues
Banned
I have the same scenario with 4 foot centers and it is ok. My son has one with 4 1/2 foot centers. It is plenty strong enough to go 5 feet.
little d
Well-known member
D,
if they overlap on a joist, they will seal up fine (they make a double sided tape to really seal it up) and if not, you can drill and pop rivet the overlap. Another trick I learned was using a sheetrock jack makes the job 10 times easier.
Do your layout work first, snapping chalk lines where the edge of the panels need to be (they can spread and you will end up with walk out if you dont hold them to the chalk lines), set your screws closest to the chalk line first then work your way to the wall (if you leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap, your trim will cover it) on your first panel. On the second row and the rest of them, set the screws on the overlap and chalk line, then the centers, this should keep your lines nice and straight.
I dont know if you have outlets and or lights but, they make round boxes, very handy for this. I used a tool from the HVAC guys, its a pivot with an adjustable end where a drill bit is. Ya drill a hole in the center of where your round box is, put the pivot stud in that hole, adjust it to the right box size, drill another hole and walk it around in a circle, I kid you not, it's that easy, takes about 15 seconds per box. Some of the boxes in that ceiling fell on the ridges, I used weather stripping around the edges to make up the differences to the ridges and snugged the cover plates to that. Not to pat myself on the back but, that was one hell of a nice looking ceiling and 22' by 150', trimmed out and done, by myself, in one day.
if they overlap on a joist, they will seal up fine (they make a double sided tape to really seal it up) and if not, you can drill and pop rivet the overlap. Another trick I learned was using a sheetrock jack makes the job 10 times easier.
Do your layout work first, snapping chalk lines where the edge of the panels need to be (they can spread and you will end up with walk out if you dont hold them to the chalk lines), set your screws closest to the chalk line first then work your way to the wall (if you leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap, your trim will cover it) on your first panel. On the second row and the rest of them, set the screws on the overlap and chalk line, then the centers, this should keep your lines nice and straight.
I dont know if you have outlets and or lights but, they make round boxes, very handy for this. I used a tool from the HVAC guys, its a pivot with an adjustable end where a drill bit is. Ya drill a hole in the center of where your round box is, put the pivot stud in that hole, adjust it to the right box size, drill another hole and walk it around in a circle, I kid you not, it's that easy, takes about 15 seconds per box. Some of the boxes in that ceiling fell on the ridges, I used weather stripping around the edges to make up the differences to the ridges and snugged the cover plates to that. Not to pat myself on the back but, that was one hell of a nice looking ceiling and 22' by 150', trimmed out and done, by myself, in one day.