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My light research indicated that the bike frame alloy surrounding the weld would need to be heat treated to restore its strength. Which is a hole can of worms. Any idea if that’s true?

I looked into frame builders around here that deal with alu. And talked to the Texas dealer. He thinks it’s good to go. Even given his financial incentive to sell a new part. And the tig welding introduces a bunch of complications. I’m going bondo and spray paint. Haven’t done that since...

I’d be pretty happy to get 30’ out of a blade. Concrete eats stuff. Gets expensive. Curious about how deep the cut. Others who know more about cutting concrete will be along.

The frame is hinged under the seat. The rear part pivots and has a shock. Strictly touring. But gravel roads. I don’t know if it’s tube or solid at that point. I was assuming solid. I’ll ask my Azub guy. The replacement frame piece is about $700 delivered. The guys says it‘s trouble to...

That’s what I’m hoping for input on. I don’t know what is possible with welding/filling.

UPS took a bite out the bike I recently purchased used. Components are worn and I’m doing a frame up rebuild. I don’t think it’s structurally significant. But I’d like to repair it. Either cosmetically or structurally. Without doing any damage to the remaining metal. What do you guys...

Yeah. No tool needed. That’s what I said.

Keep reading. For “production methods” depending on the thread lubricant used, the hardness of the bearing washer, the smoothness of torque wrench operation, etc. I believe the term “production methods” refers to an environment where many variables can be controlled. Not every day handy man...

I’m not an engineer. But with the 30% range your cited source seems to endorse outside of “very carefully controlled laboratory-type tests”, doesn’t the precise accuracy of the tool becomes significantly less important? That is, folks looking for 5% accuracy in their garage torque...

I like these old pdf engineering docs. The accuracy range in general is what interested me. Particularly with the time some spend on getting precisely calibrated tools.

Regarding the accuracy of torque values in real life see attached. I wonder how the attributes of warm/hot copper affect torque over time.

Got a couple of new units. Unfortunate that the end of life feature on the kiddie didn’t trigger as designed. I would have replaced it.

It’s been longer than I thought since I updated my technology. I think I have three or four of these things total. But I took a three to the cabin because I burn wood and charcoal. I’ll get at least two new ones for the house. Given the zero after I reset it, there’s no way I’m going...

Interesting thought. Yes, I left the windows open.

This is a little disturbing. At 2:50 am and an alarm is going off. I get up and figure out it’s the Kiddie CO detector in the kitchen. It reads 256 parts per. That’s not good. I turn on the outdoor vented fan over the stove and figure out which windows to open that have screens on. Took a...

Klein. I think they make some pliers in the US. I think all my Klein stuff is Chinese. Plastic **** is to be expected.

Peace. You misunderstand.

Were you a hall monitor?

Tone at the top makes a difference.

I think the remote is just servo controlled actuators for the electric drive motors, height adjustment pistons, and throttle. RC helicopter or airplane stuff. I was under the impression that flail was more robust for light brush. I’ve got mesquite and youpon holly up to 1”. I don’t care...