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edited: #2 AWG aluminum is allowed for a 100A "service" conductors in a dwelling unit, NOT to a 100A sub-panel

Current NEC code requires GFCI protected outlets in un-finished basements, garages, outdoors, kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas, pretty much any DAMP location. If your floor is unfinished concrete, gravel or dirt, it's damp.

Just be sure that your "point of attachment" ( eyebolt ), is BELOW your weatherhead and the wire has a "drip loop" in it.

That is Normal Operation of those testers

If the OP connected 3 inverters with a common connection and then has 3 legs hot, he has it configured in a "wye" configuration. Currently he must have the output of each inverter set to 208V. This would create a system of 208V L-N and 360V L-L. In order to get 240V L-L, he needs the...

You could use 250V - 70A, 80A, 90A or 100A fuses ( Bussman FRN would work ). You could also use lower amperage fuses, with adapters ( but I wouldn't go that route )

Many cameras use a plugin "wallwart" that are universal input voltage - 120V or 240V. The transformer doesn't need a neutral nor does it "derive" one. It just converts the 240V into 120V. You intentionally ground one of the legs one the 120V side. That becomes your grounded conductor ( the...

The pedal "thread" is 9/16-20 left and right hand threads. The flats for tightening them are 15mm

Romex cable, by itself can run through wood. Once you put a splice in it, the splice must must enclosed by a listed encolsure ( plastic, metal, box or wireway ).

Hospital grade MC cable has a redundant grounding path in it. It's basically AC cable with an insulated grounding conductor added. Steve

Good question. Legacy equipment? That's the way it's always been? IDK Milwaukee, WI at one time was the manufacturing leader in the USA.

Not here in Milwaukee, WI. ( note my screen name ) Many industrial facilities drop down their 480 3phase to 240V corner grounded delta ( usually the B phase ). Steve - IBEW 494 "grounded-B"

Don't file down the prongs. Get the proper configured receptacle.

Standard handbook for electrical apprentices here in the United States

If you heard a "Pop" and then nothing works, I would check continuity of every wire, starting at the plug end. There must be a fuse or circuit breaker that "blew". Maybe even a "fusible link" which looks just like an ordinary wire.

No, it it currently wired for 240V. That is why it has no torque and slows down. Remove the white wire from terminal #2, and place it on terminal #4. ( there are two white wires, be sure not to move the one from the line cord ). Move the brown wire to terminal #2. Do not move the black and...

The white and brown wire connections determine if it is wired for 120V or 240V. White on term #4 and Brown wire on term #2 for 120V White on term #2 and Brown wire not connected and taped up (insulated) for 240V. The black and white LINE wires go to terminals 1 & 4 for either 120V or 240V...

Knob and Tube is still allowed by the NEC as extensions to existing installations in limited cases. ( NEC art. 394 ) It can not be covered by insulation. It can only feed lighting outlets and GFCI receptacles. ( which do not need a ground to operate properly, BTW ) Installation of 2 prong...

Put a dab of silicone adhesive on top of each clip. It will be difficult to lower fixture for service, but the silcone will break free.

The link you provided was highlighted regarding a section on "medium voltage" cable. This is wire used above 600V and up to 100,000V. for those cables, yes, moisture can be a big problem. Maybe even causing death. But a little dampness of the paper inside NMB cable will not cause fires or...