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It looks like your motor is rated at 19A, 110VAC. Your contactor only has a rating of 18A. I would install a larger contactor. Also, it seems like this motor should be wired with #10AWG wire, all the way back to the panel. 19A will cause quite a bit of voltage drop on #12 wire.

I stand corrected

Double-ended fed LED tubes are not UL listed. It is too easy to plug the hot end into the socket and then touch the exposed opposite pins of the tube, thus possibly completing a series circuit to ground. Steve

Neutral fuse most likely blew because of an overload. Same current flows in both the hot and the neutral. It was probably slightly more sensitive than the fuse on the hot side, so it blew first.

To correct the code violation, put a 30A "dummy fuse" in it's place. It is a UL listed device, which basically is a solid conductor. https://www.cooper-electric.com/product/category/US_200406000000/dummy-fuses You will be NEC compliant, because your disconnect opens both conductors...

Now he's going to cite you for not strapping that MC cable. Must be supported within 12" of each box connector and every 6' there after. Running through a bored hole in a framing member is considered a support

You are not allowed to run a single current carrying conductor through a knockout in a metallic enclosure. You will get inductive heating and a choke effect.

ENT comes in both 10' sticks and 25', 50' and 100' rolls You may also have a short section left over that you may want to couple onto another piece. Secondly, damage may occur during construction, where you will have to splice in a new piece before the pour

YES. I have a copy at my bench right now. Received it in my 4th year of apprenticeship, when we covered motors in depth. That was 35 years ago It's great because it opens up double wide - 3 spirals bindings. Text is on one side, illustrations on the other.

Be sure to secure the ENT at couplings and connectors very well. I had more than one come apart on me during the pour. Use plenty of tie-wire to secure the connections to the rebar.

It is very common to run multiple circuits fed from separate breakers into one j-box. There is no NEC requirement in this case to "handle tie" the breakers. Only required to "handle-tie" the breakers, if they are feeding multiple devices on one "yoke" in a box, or they are part of a...

If it says Max FUSE size, then you MUST use fuses. Fuses have a different "trip curve" than circuit breakers.

You could use something like this. But, you would have to purchase (2) end-caps separately. From your local Electrical supply house https://www.wildcatelectric.com/product/eaton-b-line-products-4460ggv/63297?ID=/Enclosures-Junction-Boxes/Wireway-Trough-Gutter/NEMA-Type-1/dept-60T This one is...

Use several 4 11/16" x 2 1/8" deep boxes nippled together then. I haven't really seen a "wireway" like you descibed, with factory knockouts on all sides

Just use a 4" square x 2 1/8" deep metal Jbox. It has knockouts on all 5 sides. Than slap a blank metal cover on it. Easy

The easiest way is to fish in a section of flexible metallic conduit ( greenfield ) from your LB to the panel. Pull your conductors through this raceway. It's not crazy to follow the NEC. The NEC doesn't allow individual conductors to be run indoors without a raceway or as part of a listed...

No. All conductors need to be enclosed in a raceway ( conduit) or be part of an approved cable assembly ( NM-B or MC ) for their entire length from panel to box or fitting.

1/2" will fit those number of wires, but you will have to de-rate the ampacity of the wire after 3 current carrying conductors. 80% capacity for 4-6 conductors, only 70% when you have 7-9 conductors in a raceway

You will need some sort of flashing where the mounts attach to the roof. Typically you mount a "post" every 4 feet, landing on a truss or rafter. Then you span the posts, horizontally with a framing member. Then you attach "clips" to the horiz rails, to hold the panels in place Steve

No. This is NOT correct. Wiring it that way, will convert 240V down to 32V. You need to find a "buck/boost" wiring diagram. You do not use the diagram on the nameplate