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I agree, I'd only worry if there was significant damage, don't disturb it. One of the stores I worked at had a linoleum tile floor from the 50's in their office/lunchroom and the manager decided to remove them mechanically before laying a new floor. I found out later and warned him that many of...

Here's my latest. A steel tanker desk from the 1940's/50's made in Waterloo Ont by the Sunshine company. Looking for some Formica or naval linoleum for the top, otherwise in excellent shape. Edited to add; The shallow "magic drawers" are an excellent spot to hide stuff from yourself, especially...

I just bought one very similar to this for $40 Cdn, mine had a lock bezel on the drawer the mfgr mark was "Sunshine". If your location is Canada that's a likely source, as the factory that built mine was in Waterloo Ontario.( Now Kitchener/Waterloo) Mine was in excellent shape, came with a key...

Yes, Grainger is where I got mine. My B29 used 9/64" dia. 5/16" long rivets the hanson part number is BSZ05-100, grainger # is 1HBP9 , the die/clincher is hanson # HT-175, Grainger # 6LB95

I have some semi tubular rivets I bought from Hanson in the States to renew my Beach toolbox. They should fit your handles, I don't have any small enough for the plaque, sadly. We are both in Eastern Ontario it seems, maybe we can arrange some sort of transaction.

Thanks, I had my thinking cap on for a while to come up with that tool! I live 30 miles from the town where the factory made these back in the day. They still command a decent price even used...

Looks pretty good when it's done without pop rivets, my Dad would have been happy with this, I think.

Between repairs to my truck and the lawn tractor I found some time to attach the handles on my B29 box. I had to epoxy a jack post/land to clear the handle but it's working....of course a hammer would have worked on these wide/shallow drawers but this is just practice for the deep/narrow drawers...

I'm renewing an old Beach B29 tool box and had an issue installing the semi tubular rivets using a buck/hammer type tool on the stays for the lid. So I dug into my junk drawer and modified a C clamp.....not too shabby I guess. Better than pop rivets anyways. Edited to add; The flaring tool is...

I was having ongoing issues with the furnace after the second repairman installed the new valve & promised to return with a spring calibrated for propane & never came back despite many attempts to contact him. So I bought a conversion kit (spring) myself and installed it. That was when I...

The sill plate is PT, with 'juice' on the cuts. I also ran strip of tar paper between the sill plate and the brickwork, just have to keep an eye on it i guess.

Careful now...I'm 1/4 Scots, short arms/deep pockets! I've noticed our local building Inspector will hold back some advice/info until you're past that stage then say "You did do that....right?"

The truck's sorta old & tired, like me.....I have a comealong somewheres but the 3k pound winch is handier!

Time for lunch....

I've added the knee braces/chamfers and the backers for the seams, all the local lumber yards close Sundays so I'll buy the sheets tomorrow

Thanks for all the assistance/advice (help?) I appreciate it. The Aussies refer to the chamfer as a "knee brace", I thought that was cool....'a rose by any other name' as Shakespeare once said. Next time I'll make the shed a bit wider or the door a bit narrower!

I favour your approach as it lets me tie the double top sill plate to the header as well.The horizontal seam halfway down the 12" sidewall is not as bad as I feared as I've been researching portal framing online, I didn't know of such a thing until today. If I use the other method, ( starting...

The opening is 7' tall, from the bottom of the header to the floor, but the sills are about 3" above the floor due to the pavers, so an 8' sheet should stand proud of the header by roughly 4-1/2"?

I could buy 3/4" ply but I have 1/2" on hand and the prices for ply makes me weep....

So if I understand you then plywood has a 'grain'? I was going to run 8' strips up the 12" wide wall panels but I think you want me to run 2 - 4' strips 12" wide with a piece of lumber 2x4 behind the seam horizontally? This will be stiffer? The same logic applies for the header/gable area...