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Saw this on another site, interesting. Hole saw cooling tip At SoCo, often we'd drill into 1/4" SS in the control room. The hole saw would only last a short time, in this area you could Not use cutting fluid or cutting oil. One guy at Plant Bowen came up with using Ductseal inside the hole saw...

The brake and roll seems fine. Thanks Pat

Well I grew up in the pipe trade, motor cycles a hobby. Now that I'm retired, I want to keep learning new skills. Sheet shaping metal is one, and this "junker" forming tool is fine to start out with. No one has answered my question of metal forming 101. Guess I'll go to the library. Yes it's...

I've searched a bit, don't see what I need. I've got a new HF (:eyecrazy:I know) 3 in one, roll/brake/shear, setting it up. It doesn't want to cut square, need a 101 class. Thanks Pat

Deer: One thing I haven't found out, are the old shovel head shifters interchangeable? Nice work on those controls. "Sounds like you have the possibility of a niche market." RJ: This is one off. your welcome to it, I'm retired-mostly tired. Thanks for the input guys, I'll have the shaft in...

tried that cast aluminum--junk:mad:

RJ: I do have a lathe, but would this allow for chip clearance? Think I'd try some casonite too. This is not a repair, I'm trying to build a heel/toe shifter for a sporster, can't find anyone who makes them. Thanks Pat

I want to match a splined hole in a foot shifter from a motor cycle. It's aprox. 5/8 OD the splines about 1/2 inch long. Too short to grind a broach. Thought I'd case harden an old shaft, drill a hole in some 1/2 bar. Heat and punch it in like a black smith would. Any one done anything like this?

I've got one of these 3 in one sheet metal machines http://www.grizzly.com/products/Sheet-Metal-Machine-30-/G4011 The manual speaks of notching with the shear. My search comes up empty, I get iron worker machines etc. Can some one point me to this process? thanks Pat

This is just hobby stuff, windmills and yard art. But this is what I'm talking about, Pugetdude, thanks I learned something here. Last night I sat down with a mic and my calipers and tried to size some stainless, mild steel, ALU. They were close, the stainless being closest. I live on the Puget...

I got one from a machine tool dealer that's junk. Called general, you can see with your eye the tangs are separated. And testing proves it's junk. I'm just starting out in sheet metal/ would think this would be something "I'm aneeden".

I found a 12 " cresent at work one time, it'd been laying out for years. Soaked it in old battery acid, heated it cherry red, dropped it into a can of old motor oil. It works like new and is forever black, no rust.

Better hope your drunk buddies can aim.

http://www.harborfreight.com/30-inch-shear-press-brake-and-slip-roll-5907.html haven't figured out the post pics thing yet

In my search, some one said they posted about their adventure with one of these. Can't find it. They're on sale again, sounds about right for my hobby stuff. Could some one point me to that thread. Evidently it's " A Kit" which is OK. Thanks Pat

This will be on a jack shaft and rum 1000rpm tops.

missed the finished part:dunno:

My first shot at TIG brazing, A cast iron pulley and I like it. I soaked it in gas for two days. Went out and bought a $7.00 preheat/post heat oven. Clean and beveled the parts. Heated the pulley to 375*, not the little piece. Stood it on edge, tacked the ends. After the first I had to clamp it...

I want to thank you guys for your help. From now on any brazing I do will be tig. I'll post the process on the brazing 101 thread, if it's still open.:beer:

My band saw is hidden behind my lathe and welder so i did this