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This is 100% BS.

No, that is not normal. if you're already ripping out subfloor, replace as many as you can. be careful about nailing to the rim joist- you don't want to puncture whatever moisture barrier is on the other side.

au contraire, mon frère... Read again. I'll even bold it for you. CHAPTER 8. False Personation and Cheats [1720 - 1861] ( Chapter 8 enacted 1872. ) 537e. (a) Any person who knowingly buys, sells, receives, disposes of, conceals, or has in his or her possession any personal property from...

No you can't. https://law.justia.com/codes/georgia/2010/title-40/chapter-4/article-2/40-4-21/ https://law.justia.com/codes/georgia/2010/title-16/chapter-9/article-5/16-9-70/ Risk of ever facing the man for doing it is extremely low.. but by the letter of the law in pretty much every state...

If it were me, honestly, I'd probably just take the drawers out and lag it right to the wall through the back of the top box.

None. You can drill beams- it's done all the time in timber, LVL, steel, whatever. The usual rule is that the hole is no closer to either edge than 1/3 of the section. I.e. for a 12" beam, any holes much be at least 4" from the top or 4" from the bottom. This is because the upper fibers of...

Pull the stop off first, so the glass can move away from the frame a little, and use a sharp putty knife. Flexible ones are best, they're thinner.

If you read the original post, you'd know

It is.

In short... no.

Milwaukee's die grinder is very good for an electric die grinder, but it is nowhere close to an air grinder.

Beam parallel with the handle. The other two positions you're applying force in line with the shaft of the click-type wrench, which it never sees when actually in use.

4.8 and stainless does not exist. Metric grades (4.8, 8.8, 10.9, etc) are ratings for alloy carbon steel hardware. If you need stainless, buy stainless. Stainless bolts and screws are available in various levels of strength, but aren't rated the same way because stainless hardware is not...

If you're going to post like a petulant child, at least snipe at what I actually said. I never said to never use anti-seize. I have like 5 half empty bottles in my shop cabinet right now. I use it all the time. Where it's called for.

LOL. K dude.

I never said I didn't agree with that. What I said was that lubricating fasteners which don't call for lubrication is a bad idea. Which it is. When was the last time you heard a story about someone putting steering rack (or whatever) back on, re-using all the bolts, and then all the bolts...

If you want to avoid degradation of preload, lubrication is exactly what you don't want. I've said nothing remotely close to that. No, they don't. I can assure you of that. Re-assembly tension is a very important factor in selecting the torque values that are published in maintenance...

No. I’m saying that this very narrow study (most all studies are narrow in scope, that’s not a slight against the study itself) provides a clear example of conditions where what I’m saying is true, is true. That’s not a statement that it isn’t true under other conditions. My recommendation...

Pretty good chart on p31 which (according to this one study) confirms my opinion. It’s pretty simple from a logical standpoint. Want to prevent bolts from coming loose? One of the first things you do is increase friction between the bolt and nut, by applying thread locker or a prevailing torque...

I came to this 'conclusion' after getting paid to put my stamp on drawings of bolted assemblies for 20 years. Bolts maintain preload through friction between all of the surfaces in contact with the parts being mated. Changing the coefficient of friction between the head/washer/flange or...