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We use #6 stranded to ground rods. I'll agreed that you will never get under 25 Ohms to ground with ground rods. But I'll "argue" that the 2nd ground rod adds no value., despite being required by code. Although I don't think it's much of an argument, almost everyone in the industry agrees.

With all that rust on the beater truck, how much will you be slowing the rot?

Nobody chooses it, you are born into it. IME.

Remove existing wallboard and replace. Everything else is a band aid or cluster F*** And probably more work.

I'll believe you on the length limitations, I'm just surprised. I see boxes of those cortex screws laying all over the job sites, and i pick up enough just for my use. I guess I should pick up more. They are headed to the dumpster, anyway, typically. I didn't know the price - never bought them.

I agree, look for longer lengths. I also use regular clear pvc cement, and the cortex screws. Back in 2008 I trimmed my 18 x 10 overhead door with azak and painted it maroon. The dark color didn't expand at all. It was a Sherwin Williams paint that was specifically recommended by Azak.

I took it that you wanted an opinion on price based on scope of work. I didn't see that you said you didn't want an opinion on price, just that you thought price was fair. But now I can see what you meant.

Sounds good to me. I wouldn't be putting 30 or 50 amp 240V receptacles in a workshop on GFCI's unless I had "no choice", realizing that they are required, and I have to do so for my customers, as a professional. We can't even get new Ranges and Dryers to run on a GFCI breaker. Fortunately...

I'd guess that your are on target. I've never seen a saw that size and style for construction

Also, you will likely want to make sure the FMC is at least 1/2" trade size. (I will admit to using 3/8" for the last 40 years in applications that were 'prohibited" per NEC.)

That depends on the installation. I've run solid 14 thhn on residential boilers for 40 years. I will agree that stranded is more flexible, which may not be imperative.

Depending which code cycle they are on. IDK what FL follows. Here in MA we follow the current NEC, w/ MA amendments. Some states are 10-15 years prior.

The GFI's need to be readily accessible, and I'd put them in the panel, but 'readily accessible' does not mean not moving ladders, tools , etc. It means not moving any part of the building finish. But I do agree with the rest of your post, fwiw.

For homeowner use, I'd do this. And I agree totally on osha regs. No modifications to cords.

I like running the EMT high and dropping down for a number of reasons. That's how I'd do it too.

You may want to add some venting to your attic. 150 degress is not normal.

That's what I was going to ask/ suggest. Direct entrance to basement, even if it is from outdoors, not from the garage. (assuming it is now from garage)

No issues here with Dewalt batteries. I also like the small 2 ah for my impact driver. (Although I use Makita drivers) I have tons of Dewalt, and a few guys that work for me use the dewalt drivers. I have had issues with Milwaukee recently.

I wouldn't put junction boxes in attic. I'd pipe on the surface as the others suggested and pull thhn.

FWIW, I have the multiple dewalt reciprocating saws previousluy mentioned. I have a corded super sawzall. I have 3-4 cordless MW sawzalls If you can't figure out what you need for a job, you msy want to reconsider