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Built my own for about $450 and 30 hours' work: My home-made heavy-duty rotisserie

Here's the right stuff (and not expensive): McMaster-Carr braided hoses

One other thing, and forgive me if I just didn't see it in the photos, but you should have some kind of flexible hose between the compressor and the copper lines. I use a 24" length of 1" braided stainless I got from McMaster. This flexible area will prevent metal fatigue and failure in the...

If it gets that cold in your garage, you can open the doors and use the fridge as a heater!

OK, here I am asking. How much did you pay? :)

Can I ask what they cost, Chuck? That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks.

I did a search but came up empty on this. I'm looking for some of those custom overhead garage doors, probably 7x8 for a single opening, though I'll need 5 of them. I'd like to have some that look like carriage doors, but open overhead. I've seen the Clopay doors which are nice, but they don't...

I found a few things on McMaster-Carr that may be a good substitute. They have 50 ft of 1/2" stainless tubing rated at 1337 PSI for $65. They also have carbon steel stuff for ~$19 for 6 feet rated at 1368 PSI, though it may rust inside. I'm also planning on using 3/4" supply lines, and the...

You don't have to settle right away, either. They'll want to close this off their books ASAP just because they don't want you to sue them for injuries down the road. In fact, my father the attorney always advises not to settle for at least 6 months--in most states you have at least 12 months to...

I'm gearing up to build my dream shop and have been thinking that I would use regular old galvanized rigid conduit (like $3.00 for a 10 foot length) and Swagelok-type compression fittings. I have a buddy who works at Swagelok who can get me some of their seconds and "scratch and dent" pieces...

Mmmmm, sprinkles... /Homer

I call mine the "Matt Zone." A few years ago, there was a guy by the name of Matt Zone running for city council here in Cleveland. I have a few of his signs in the garage because they seemed so appropriate. You can sort of see the sign in the background of this photo:

Wood moves around. As it ages, it dries out (even kiln-dried lumber still has about 20% water in it) and it'll shift around. Usually there is a stressed skin nailed to the studs that keeps them from moving in any significant way, but the stuff you have seems to offer no structural strength. A...

Thanks for the great replies, guys. I knew I'd get fast and useful information here. I'm going to extend the wires with some romex and do the continuity tests and find the two wires that should go from switch to switch. The upstairs switch definitely has a wire going to the light fixture, so I'm...

I know it's a little off-topic, but I know there are some smart electricians watching this forum, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I'm renovating an old (1927) house with tube-and-peg wiring. There are a pair of 3-way switches that operate the upstairs hall light. Both switches were broken so I...

I like the bending idea, but just bend over the corner so that it has a finished appearance and isn't sharp, like a bullnose tile. I would do this, even if it means cutting the stainless into smaller lengths so they'll fit in his bender--the seams will fit tight and be invisible after...

Let him go, guys. Darwin always takes care of his own... :shocking:

Good tip. Thanks! :lol:

It draws 22-23 amps according to the label on the motor, but it's on a 30-amp breaker. That isn't enough for a true 7.5 hp motor. Whatever it is, it's getting all the power it needs. I'm not complaining--for $800 it's a hell of a compressor--but I know that it isn't putting out what the label...

I have a Husky unit, and I doubt their claim of 7.5 HP. It's probably closer to 4. It's rated at 15+ CFM @ 90 PSI, but I doubt that number, too. If I'm grinding with a cutoff wheel or die grinder for any extended period, it'll keep up without much trouble, but it runs almost continuously. Next...