Compressor air lines being installed

[ron in sc]

I've started changing out my old 1/2" galvanized pipe to 3/4" L copper.

First 6' or so are angle back to compressor.

Over the next 20' the line slopes down and away from the compressor 5".

Then the line will go down to the first drop which will have drip leg/drain on the bottom.

When new garage/shop is built air will be sent from that distribution thing or whatever it should be called that I made and then over to new building.

 

[bmwpower]

Nice joints!

 

[MustangRick]

I second that, mine look charred beyond recognition compared to that.

 

[Mike F]

Great job! I had a heck of a time routing my lines around the garage door tracks. I realized, all too late, that I should have used a union as you did. Where did you learn to sweat pipe so cleanly?

 

[ron in sc]

Where did you learn to sweat pipe so cleanly?

Nowhere just by doing it. Keep in mind that I did those sweat joints on the workbench where you have much greater control. Also when I'm done I clean the pipe and joint with a couple of 3m products, Super Duty Rubbing Compound and then Finesse it Finishing Material; that's what makes it shine and look nice.

 

[Dave Carney]

Purdy !!!!

 

[Kevin54]

First time I ever heard of cut, buff, and polishing your copper lines

Nice job. Looks first rate!!

Kevin

 

[1320stang]

Where did the staunchions to slope the lines come from?

Also, how come no drip leg off the compressor?

 

[ron in sc]

Where did the staunchions to slope the lines come from?

Obtained from local plumbing suppy store, they are copper clad so they were very inexpensive, I painted the 3/8" threaded rod. I've also seen them at Lowes.

Also, how come no drip leg off the compressor?

I figured that the water in line that goes up to ceiling will just go back into tank. Are you taking about a drip leg somewhere else? Not sure I follow you. I will have one under the point where I will have filters located.

 

[ZRX61]

I figured that the water in line that goes up to ceiling will just go back into tank. Are you taking about a drip leg somewhere else? Not sure I follow you. I will have one under the point where I will have filters located.

You don't want it to go back into the tank. Where the line does a 90deg & goes up the wall should be a T with another drip leg/ballvalve about 6in or so below it.

 

[bmwpower]

I think he has an autodrain on the tank.

 

[ZRX61]

ah, okee doke

 

[1320stang]

Obtained from local plumbing suppy store, they are copper clad so they were very inexpensive, I painted the 3/8" threaded rod. I've also seen them at Lowes.

I was just at Lowe's, didn't see them. I was looking for something more elegant than a block of wood and a strap, I like what you've done.

I figured that the water in line that goes up to ceiling will just go back into tank. Are you taking about a drip leg somewhere else? Not sure I follow you. I will have one under the point where I will have filters located.

Yeah, that's where I was talking about. I remember a post where a guy said he had/made a dessicant dryer that he could recharge by putting the 'element' in an oven and heating the moisture out and making it turn from pink back to white. I wonder if right out of the tank would be the place to put it.

 

[bmwpower]

I was just at Lowe's, didn't see them. I was looking for something more elegant than a block of wood and a strap, I like what you've done.



Yeah, that's where I was talking about. I remember a post where a guy said he had/made a dessicant dryer that he could recharge by putting the 'element' in an oven and heating the moisture out and making it turn from pink back to white. I wonder if right out of the tank would be the place to put it.

I'm gonna use these things, too. I haven't looked for them yet.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=23393&postcount=21

 

[kartracer55]

That is exactly what is in my garage.

Home depot sells them, and you dont need threaded rod.

Here is what you can do...

Open them up, and run a drill through the threaded section.

Then, counter-sink that hole, so the head of a woodscrew can fit.

Screw them into the joist, fit the line it, then screw the cap back on. This way you cant see where they are mounted and you can also mount them anywhere. They are far superior to straps, but they are also a few $ each as I recall.

Jim

 

[ron in sc]

Pretty much done running copper for now. Will run tubing for new garage from top of riser at a later date. Also need to install filters and regulator at the brass tee. I've not decided what system to go with yet but I'm leaning toward the La-Man dryer extractor.

 

[kbs2244]

I agree with ZRX61 about the drip leg by the tank. That long virtical is where you are going to get most of your water. For sure with copper and it's greater cooling ability.
I sure like that drip leg between the doors. Big dia and a good valve. Lots of capicity and easy to get to. That is what you need by the tank.

 

[bmwpower]

What's up with the larger diameter pipe on the one drop? Is that for moisture collection?

 

[ron in sc]

agree with ZRX61 about the drip leg by the tank.

I'll see how it works the way I've got it for starters. My system is modular, i.e., everything is screwed together so I can always make adjustments.

What's up with the larger diameter pipe on the one drop? Is that for moisture collection?

I did not have much space below so I figured what I did not have in length I'd make up for in width. That large pipe is either 2" or 2 1/2" I don't recall. Anyway it's about 18" long so I'm thinking it probably has more volume than the 3/4" pipe would have been if I had been able to run it all the way to the floor.

 

[ron in sc]

Below is photo of the split rings, base plate and rod I used, obtained from plumbing supply store. The one that's galvanized is what I removed which is 1/2" and was obtained from Lowes. They’re made a little different. Locally Lowes sells the copper clad ones too, made just like the galvanized ones with two screws.

 

[bmwpower]

Below is photo of the split rings, base plate and rod I used, obtained from plumbing supply store. The one that's galvanized is what I removed which is 1/2" and was obtained from Lowes. They’re made a little different. Locally Lowes sells the copper clad ones too, made just like the galvanized ones with two screws.

Approx. price per set?

 

[ron in sc]

Rod is $3.35 for 10 ft. lenght, I painted it metallic copper
Copper clad stuff:
base plate's are $.94 earch
split ring hangers are $.63 each.

Got all this at Ferguson Enterprises, Inc. they are a big company I think they have many locations. No sure if they are just in the Southeast.

 

[1320stang]

Thanks for the pic, I'll take it with me.

 

[tim610007]

GREAT JOB!! That copper looks real cool!!!!! Believe it or not, I used scheudule 80 PVC tubing. The grey stuff. I just used the PVC glue and piped it all around my shop to a hose reel and to my media blaster. I even made water traps out of the stuff with brass valves on the bottoms to release moisture. It holds perfectly and my compressor pressure is up to 135 PSI. Its been working great for years and it inexpensive and easy to install.

 

[bmwpower]

GREAT JOB!! That copper looks real cool!!!!! Believe it or not, I used scheudule 80 PVC tubing. The grey stuff. I just used the PVC glue and piped it all around my shop to a hose reel and to my media blaster. I even made water traps out of the stuff with brass valves on the bottoms to release moisture. It holds perfectly and my compressor pressure is up to 135 PSI. Its been working great for years and it inexpensive and easy to install.

From one Junkie to another, you might want to do some searching about PVC on here. Most everyone will tell you it's a no-no in a compressed air setup due to the pipe explosion hazard.

 

[PAToyota]

Ron, that looks really nice. However, I have to say that you really **** because now I'm not going to be satisfied until I polish mine!

 

[914forme]

I ran PVC in my old shop, when I moved it to my new space it was brittle, I mean super brittle. I am using copper in the new shop so this is perfect, I was laying it out today. I like the use of the unions, never thought about it, and it would make it a lot easier to assemble in the air.

Don't use PCV, unless you don't like yourself.

 

[Bib Overalls]

I also used schedule 80 PVC. But I am going back an re-plumbing with copper. I think schedule 80 is safe but it does not cool the air like copper and lets to much moisture through.

 

[Aeroman]

This is great info, a lot to swallow for a first timer! I have an 60-gal compressor from Lowes in a 3-car garage. I plan on using copper for the airlines like "ron in sc" did. Would it be possible to put together a simple shopping list so I can get started on getting piping, solder, etc? What kind of solder?

Thanks!

 

[1320stang]

As I recall, the best solder is 95-5, 95% antimoney and 5% tin, but I haven't been able to find it around here.

I would make some simple plans and maybe draw some sections or elevations if it's hard to show what you're doing in plan view. I just drew on some scrap cardboard, but no matter how you look at it, this stuff is expensive, I'll probably have close to $400 in my lines and point of use regulators by the time it's all said and done, I only have a 2 car garage as well.

 

[Aeroman]

$400, wow...yeah, I'll start by doing that and sketch a diagram. Maybe I'll post it and get some suggestions on design, diameters, etc? Thanks a bunch.

 

[Matt Harwood]

One other thing, and forgive me if I just didn't see it in the photos, but you should have some kind of flexible hose between the compressor and the copper lines. I use a 24" length of 1" braided stainless I got from McMaster. This flexible area will prevent metal fatigue and failure in the joints nearest the compressor due to vibration. No matter how secure you think your lines and compressor are, just the vibrations from the pump will wear on the copper and make it brittle. It'll probably take a long, long time before that happens, but why not fix it now before there's a problem.

Hope this helps--sorry if you've addressed this issue and I just didn't see it. Nice work, by the way!

 

[PoorOwner]

One other thing, and forgive me if I just didn't see it in the photos, but you should have some kind of flexible hose between the compressor and the copper lines. I use a 24" length of 1" braided stainless I got from McMaster. This flexible area will prevent metal fatigue and failure in the joints nearest the compressor due to vibration. No matter how secure you think your lines and compressor are, just the vibrations from the pump will wear on the copper and make it brittle. It'll probably take a long, long time before that happens, but why not fix it now before there's a problem.

Hope this helps--sorry if you've addressed this issue and I just didn't see it. Nice work, by the way!

That sounds good but is there something that I can be found from home improvement stores? I think some reinforced PVC hose are rated for 175 PSI? barbed fitting though.

 

[ron in sc]

I had the hydraulic hose place make me a section of hose about 2' long.

 

[Junkman]

As I recall, the best solder is 95-5, 95% antimoney and 5% tin, but I haven't been able to find it around here.

I would make some simple plans and maybe draw some sections or elevations if it's hard to show what you're doing in plan view. I just drew on some scrap cardboard, but no matter how you look at it, this stuff is expensive, I'll probably have close to $400 in my lines and point of use regulators by the time it's all said and done, I only have a 2 car garage as well.

95/5 is 95% tin, and the 5% balance is antimony with a trace of bismuth and or silver. It has a higher melting point and is more difficult to use then the old 50/50 solder which was half tin and half lead. Usually the first number refers to the tin content, and the second number to the balance content. The success of any soldered joint is to make sure that both mating surfaces are clean and free of any oxidation. The second thing that is required is a good heat source to uniformly heat the joint to get the solder to flow into the joint. Without the proper amount of heat, you will get a cold soldered joint that will either leak or fail in the future. Like welding, temperature is all important to creating the perfect bond.

 

[kbs2244]

Just so everyone knows. Shd 80 PVC (the Gray stuff) is a whole different ball park from the white stuff. It will take the pressuer and the age. BUT it will also not condense out the moisture like copper because it is much more of an insulator.
I have seen it used as a tank in long (30 foot x 8 inch) runs, but with a good 6 inch pitch for drainage.
They also used finned copper, with a good 18 inch drip leg, to get up to it. The copper looked like the stuff inside the hot water heat radiators. Maybe 2 inch.
Has anybody heard of, seen, or used this kind of copper? I never got a chance to check it out real well. But it seemed to make sense, and it had been in place for some time.

 

[kbs2244]

BTW, Ron;
I am guessing you never plan on the need to get into the elect box by the post?
If you ever have an inspector over for some reason, he may call you on it. Next time you have the system down, you might think about an 20 inch piece with unions at each end to show him you have access to the box.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Just so everyone knows. Shd 80 PVC (the Gray stuff) is a whole different ball park from the white stuff. It will take the pressuer and the age.

People keep bringing this up, but the fact of the matter is PVC pipe is not rated for use with compressed air, period. It doesn't matter if it's schedule 20 or 40 or 80 or whatever, the manufacturers will tell you it's for use with liquids only.

This has been discussed a million times on this website, along with links to various manufacturer's websites as well as OSHA and other regulatory groups.

Copper and steel pipe are ductile. If they are cracked or otherwise damaged when under pressure, the broken portion of the pipe will simply bend and the air will come out. Under the same conditions, PVC pipe shatters and throws shrapnel around the room.

 

[ron in sc]

I am guessing you never plan on the need to get into the elect box by the post?

Do you mean the one in the photo I've posted below? I think that should be ok.

 

[kbs2244]

Yeah, that will work.
From the angle in the other pic it looked like the pipe went right under it.