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I wish I did. I really like the way Saber mounted (to the wall on a ledge) so there was always a clear spot underneath. And they are built like tanks. I don't really care for NewAge and The Pro series is closest to Saber but they cost just as much so I just stuck with Saber.

I loved saber cabinets. But the price has almost tripled since I did my first install about 6 years ago. Used to be able to get a garage journal discount, but I think the distributer was sold. The 48" cabinets were about $450 and now are $1300. I've found more reasonable alternatives.

Stem wall is easiest. You can mount dimensional lumber to the wall underneath to give you whatever height you want. I used 2 x 6 which gives a nice under cabinet gap.

I worked in military aerospace for many years and we once found mil specs for condoms.:evil: So a fair enough statement. However none of their MDS/SDS or tech data references for this supplier references any mil-specs. The best I could find was they sold it to the coast guard for a hanger once.

I did a 100% solids epoxy about 3 years ago at my previous home and now that I moved have been going through the same thing in planning for quite some time. I was also considering just burnishing/polishing with a densifier product. But my floor is subject to auto fluids so I decided to not go...

Ok thanks was a little confused as some of the color charts showed a "lead" color and others including the order page show "gray".. I think I'll order a sample and try it out. Any suggestions on concrete patch material that doesn't stick out like a sore thumb? The concrete is new and in...

I've decided to do a polyurea over bare concrete (no color base) to try and capture an industrial concrete look for garage shop floor. Originally I was just going to do polished / burnished concrete but decided that I'd like something with more resistance to fluids and spills. So decided to do...

I think your floor looks great!!!! But everyone has their own idea. I'm not sure you can add color to a urethane topcoat layer as normally the color is in the epoxy coat. With the polyurea products however you can add color. You might talk to one of the single part polyurea folks (eg...

Normally on the clear, you want to apply the second code not long after the first.

That is the problem I don't . I got the other garage completed and it looked fantastic. Everyone who saw it was envious. Then we had to move across country... so I didn't really get to enjoy it for long. That said, it helped sell the house quickly, as the guy who bought my house said it is...

Yeah, I was never a huge fan of New Age... Probably the thing I liked best abut saber was that the cabinets and lowers were designed to be mounted on a ledge and you had a nice space underneath and got them off the ground without feet/support. It made for a very clean garage design. You...

Long thread I know... I did my review in 2017. I've relocated and am planning a new garage. Very disappointed at how overpriced Saber has become. Looks like the price has gone up about 40% from when I did my garage in 2017. I considered them a good value at the time, but not so much...

I've not used it, but in checking the Sherwin williams it does look to be a primer + Epoxy. (Although I hate hearing the word "Paint" when referring to floor coatings as that is what all the garbage big box stuff calls their stuff "epoxy paint" which is just junk and quickly lifts. But you...

I think your assessment of the statics and impact is probably pretty reasonable. I suppose you "care" because like anything we do to a structure (or a statics problem) ideally falls into the region of margin built into building codes or maybe good design. Usually you can get away with "small"...

Thanks

Thanks for the "Witty" answer, but I guess you didn't actually read the question you were replying, which was: How would you attach to the "SIDE" (not the bottom) of a joist when it is buried behind drywall.

Yeah right.. that's going to work great when I have at last count about 60..... I don't think so.

No, not really. The question was much simple and basic and is at what point to you compromise a piece of lumber by using a fastener that is too large and ultimately undermines the structural integrity. For discussion purposes this would be even with no load attached to the lag bolt, so all the...

There are numerous alternatives if I wanted to attach to the side of the joist. unfortunately that isn't really reasonable with a finished drywall ceiling, thus the less desirable bottom of the joist solution. If you can get at the side of the joist, I would agree a sheer solution would be...

Ok, that sounds reasonable. Ultimately I was hoping to get to about 3/8"