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been busy. and i aint in a rush but i will update when i do. it may sit there til replacement afterall...

yeah i debated a piece of metal as a patch vs a patch composed of just the new solder/braze/weld material as well... thats the kind of direction i was hoping this thread would go... im sure someone knows...

this has nothing to do with money. no one is 'going without'. the tank cant be moved for a few months regardless... might as well tinker with it. i have brazing rods, i have welding rods, i have solder rolls, i have epoxies. these are 'sunk costs'. i have zero worries about harming this tank...

thanks. im definitely not asking for endorsements, obviously it needs replaced. but do you think a series of quick tack welds in lieu of the braze/solder would eliminate this metal difference issue? i have a small stick welder and a fluxcore welder... i am fairly certain that over a few months...

I never claimed to know much of anything about corrosion in a water heater. I just asked some questions. you said solder/braze would throw the steel under the bus, i agree... but wouldnt the new anode rod still corrode first? i agree that the water is full of garbage chemicals and theres no good...

fun fact about that permatex water epoxy: the sds says its 60-100% BISPHENOL A aka 'BPA' the packages for those epoxies are very sketchy in their wordings for being 'safe' for potable water... between the teflon/ptfe, aluminum, and bpa floating around in the 'conventional' hot water tanks you...

shards of glass aint coming out of the shower head. the lining is not even that thick... it posts no hazard beyond the sediment, aluminum, and teflon/ptfe currently in the tank... ill let the screen catch whatever happens to make it that far i would try the epoxy but i dont think it will...

like i said, if it springs a leak then my blanket smothers it and it flows down the drain. this has already happened.

i also think excessive cure time is needed for epoxy, but my biggest issue with it in past uses is adherence. ive used regular jb and quik steel previously. i get a decent bond about 40% of the time. i doubt any of those bonds would hold water though. i dont know if the heat cycle would...

ive not 'argued' against you or the few others with good knowledgeable posts. i know full well the tank needs replaced. if there was any argumentative tone on my end i assure you it was directed at people posting 'mythbusters' snippets and saying it would explode because of a pinhole... it...

bingo. theres time constraints on getting everything ready for that total conversion/remodel... so this pinhole problem is worth patching and monitoring for a bit

if the braze patch holds and a new anode is put into the tank isnt it going to corrode the anode first before it corrodes everything else? hot water in this case is used for showers only... i could literally turn off the power and drain the tank after every use. i would just need ~30 mins notice...

new $15 relief valve... problem solved.

i confirmed this tank has a glass liner so i will just braze it shut i definitely would have tried permatex or jb weld water epoxies if it was plastic lined because i have plenty extras laying around but i cant ever get it to adhere quite right so personally i dont trust epoxies too much

i know it needs replaced. i said that in the first post. this is for educational purposes only. i guess some people have just never seen a serviceable piece of metal develop a little fracture... ive seen pinholes in 50yr old pipes fixed with a piece of rubber and 2 clamps... still no additional...

This tank has to stay in place for a short while regardless. currently its off and drained. i plan to babysit it regardless, so i figure brazing practice is in order as long as it isnt plastic lined. if it is plastic lined then i will go the epoxy route... i have some sort of leak detector thing...

this thread popped up on my radar. definitely flush it yearly. pressurized flushing produces way more debris than just letting it drip out. throw your hose in the bathtub and you will see a ton of debris comes out. in fact you should let it settle back down to the bottom and flush it multiple...

well, it leaked while it was hot/on. it gurgled up water into the spray foam and then the water dripped over the lid and down the side. it soaked the blanket and dripped down the drain right next to it. I know it needs replaced, I am just trying and learning. i barely use hot water without ample...

yep now that you mention it i forgot about those cuts on my other thread chaser tools. the side cuts would have worked i think, but a cheap tap is probably better: the 3/4 npt tap is about $12 at Tractor Supply... they were the best priced local place. it is a china tap by Mibro but I figured I...

I figure it will be short lived, but I just like trying my hand at stuff like this. I will have to check my bottles of 'mapp' to be certain. I read about Mapp vs Mapp pro and I cant recall the difference so thanks for pointing that out... I too was concerned that the temps may not be high enough...