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I used the stuff linked in post 27 above. It successfully sealed the anode rod threads but I found a hole in the tank... more on that here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/electric-water-tank-hole-patching-braze-solder-epoxy-weld.504642/

So I have confirmed a hole in the top of my electric hot water heater tank with 5psi of air and some soapy water... I know I need a new tank... I just want to string this one along for a bit longer The hole appears to be on top near the hot water outlet since that is where it is bubbling. It is...

the rectorseal worked thanks again

is this stuff any good? https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSeal-T-Plus-2-in-4-oz-Teflon-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-23633/100201204

thanks for all the replies thus far. any thoughts on 'rectorseal t plus 2' dope? it will be my first shot since i already had some laying around. the wicking stuff the guy gave me was just a cotton twine... pretty sure thats going back and i will get something suggested above if i go the...

ah thats true about the lube... yeah i see why there wouldnt be a spec now.

i considered that as well, i wouldnt know if its correct or not but it crossed my mind as well. i thought about using a bernzomatic brazing stick to glob up some new metal in the threads and then using the tap to just re-tap it... theres probably 1000 ways to skin this cat but i figure i will...

thanks for posting that... it jogs my memory: i have been looking for some rough torque specs and never found anything... i know every tank would be different, but roughly how many lb-ft should i be shooting for with the anode rod?

do you (or anyone) happen to have a link to the product? he sent me off with a roll of some kind of string... it will probably work but i am thinking theres likely a preferred type of 'wick' for cheap

so i am dabbling with an electric water heater... the ultimate answer here is that i need a new one but i want to try some things first in order to learn and i have some questions... so i pulled the anode rod and the threads there were crusty. i got a 3/4 pipe thread tap. i asked a guy who said...

thanks again for the tips. still havent got around to doing it =] i have powerwashed the loose clear off a few times and plan to do it before sanding. i did get some 600-800-1000 grit discs for my sander off amazon the reason why i said i planned to use 800 is because thats what the most...

thanks for the advice gents. my new plan is to block sand the roof only by hand to start. it is a regular cab so there aint much there. i am going to try the 800 grit and just take it from there. if i see primer i will throw in the towel. i cant exactly make it worse... if nothing else i have...

i will do that if it comes to it. i figure 800 is probably the lowest grit i can use and still keep the factory base coat.

it is just a 20 some year old GM truck that sat out in the sun. The clear just starts flaking for whatever reason. I have seen it on a lot of GM trucks from that era. It is primarily only a problem on those two panels and the truck sits around more than it gets used. I just wanted to spruce it...

I need to take some bad clearcoat off the roof and hood of a small truck in order to spray some new clear. I have never done this. I want to use a 5in cordless dewalt random orbit sander i have laying around but I cannot find 800 grit 5in discs ... does anyone know where to find them...

so i have some extra dewalt flexvolt string trimmers (model DCST970)and a milwaukee fuel string trimmer (model 2725-20) as well... they are the original trimmers that are not designed as a 'power head'. they are a dedicated string trimmer. can i put these hart, ryobi, etc. 'universal'...

oftentimes when walmart RTVs products or merely puts them in the back for next season (ie. heaters/fans/ACs that carry over to next season) they rarely adjust whatever system brickseek gets its info from. thus you will have large numbers 'in stock' on brickseek but no one will even bother...

thanks, 5w20, 0w20 available as well... 0w30 looks out of sight, maybe never carried it

egos are still floating around mostly bare tools only and largely not worth it unless you need it... ego clearance at lowes will be rare i bet

they watch them here and have been extra antzy since wuflu. some even have glass and signs up with "do not enter" the "update" problems occurred a few years back at many stores but i remember the direct urls were still functional until the icon for the menu came back at nearly every store.