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Can someone suggest the best fastener assortments I could purchase in organizers for US metric screws bolts and nuts for general purpose use at home and Japanese car repair

I was going to cut the top off with a sawzaw and use a regular socket, but got it with the visegrips

Yes I agree especially the location. The last one I did that made me want to get the tool is a Hyundai Elantra on the exhaust manifold right where all the rubes join. Almost not clearance between it and the radiator fan. I kind of like the ones with the built in bar dedicated.

Man that is cool. Thanks for all of the suggestions!!

Can someone suggest a quality oxygen sensor tool. I don't mind spending a little money, but don't want to spend too much. I know there are a few designs out there. What one works the best

I checked the fuel line, that was the first thing before rebuilding, it is OK. The problem now is that it is way too rich and the only way to get it to run is tuen both mixture screws fully lean and take of the air filter. I also removed the spark arrestor

Yeah the primer bulb is good I checked that.

Well I took it all apart and completely cleaned it inside with carb cleaner and replaced all the pieces in the rebuild kit and it is now running super rich. I had to turn the low idle and high idle mixture screws all the way in just to get it to run and took out the airflter just to get it to...

Ok I took apart the carb, cleaned it and rebuilt it with a rebuild kit from the stihl dealer. Now it is running really rich and the only way I can keep it running is to lean it completely and or take off the air filter. Any idea what I can do to remedy this?

Is the spark arrestor visible from the outside of the muffler? I don't see any screen, just a small outlet

It was running fine earlier this year, now it starts then dies I put new gas in it. Any help is appreciated

Thanks I will look him up

When I say stays on full blast I mean full blast of what the main current knob is set at there is not control within that. The remote switch is right. It has already been to the repair shop and they said PC1

I am an electrical engineer and bought it from our company. It was checked by the repair shop and they said the pedal is good. They said it is PC1 board and it is expensive. I got the whole welder for $200. It strikes an arc but stays on full blast of what the main current knob is set at. If I...

Thank you but I also need a schematic for the circuit board PC1

I just got a good deal on a Miller synchrowave 250. It is about 18 years old. The problem with it is that when you push the foot pedal it turns on full blast and is not able to throttle with the foot pedal. Already checked it is not the pedal. Any help you be appreciated including where to get a...

Thanks for all of the suggestions

Can someone direct me to the best one? I work mostly on quads and cars. Or if someone could suggest the sizes mostly used I can make my own. Just made a trip to town for a stupid alternator bolt

Any suggestions??? All the ones I have used give me a headache because the piece above/behind the ear pushes in. Thanks

I have the nicer model from Harbor freight (like $80 on sale) The good thing is it prints out the errors in text not just a number