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if its stuck , break / cut it off close to the hex , then use a shallow 1/2 inch drive 6pt socket

Bank 1 is on the firewall side on this engine and bank 2 is on radiator side . With that being said sensor 2 is always the downstream sensor (after cat) and is never an A/F ratio sensor , always an O2 sensor . So if your code is for : bank 1 sensor 1 firewall side before cat bank 1 sensor 2...

i fix appliances every now and then for friends and family . I was working on a bosch dishwasher about 20 years ago that had a pan built into the unit and a float switch that would shut it off in the event of a leak. Cool design i thought. This is similar to the design of the secondary catch...

you could just buy an extra cap and attach an air fitting and use your compressor with a regulator

you can use the individual strands from stranded copper wire.

for what you intend to use it for 1/4 will be fine not much cfm to carry. 1/4 willalso be lighter to handle.

there 2 jaw pullers missing the jaws ,attachment brackets and hardware should look like this https://www.google.com/search?q=2+jaw+puller&rlz=1CAMWDF_enUS833&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6_aiW-K_hAhXkYd8KHRL_BpMQ_AUIDygC&biw=1366&bih=665#imgrc=pPYSzNKD1aKwGM:

Milwaukee band saw table in great shape , very little use. MILWAUKEE part # 48-08-0260 local pickup is best as its pretty heavy located in suffern NY 10901

I do it all on line , they return your emails within minutes and sometimes don't even require you to send the tool back. They send you a pre paid shipping label if they want the tool back also.

The stator windings are probably welded to the diode bridge and will have to be carefully cut and then soldered back when your done. This is the way its done at the factory. The rotor shaft is often seized to the inner race of the front bearing and is very difficult to remove without damaging...

Try tightening them with an impact till they snap off

I never used one , I made an adapter for my morgan knoker 10lb slide hammer and use a rear axle flange type puller. I mostly work on cars and it never failed me , and I'm in rust city NY. Seems pretty easy to make , you can cut the flange off an old hub bearing and weld on a pipe , than bang away!

pilot bearing pullers for manual trans input shaft support are easy to get , may work for your application . Look like this...

If the motors are the universal type , with wound fields , than ripple is not a concern. They will even run on A/C.

It really matters what your working on. I prefer long handle ratchets in all drive sizes but I mostly work on modern cars and its for access more so that the additional torque it provides. If its torque your after then go for the 1/2" drive but your not going to squeeze that into a modern...

also check that the crankcase is properly vented.

you can use the type thats thin like a washer with a square hole in the center and knurling on the outer edge. It just goes on the ratchet and then you put the socket on.

probably the oil would leak out from the vent , that's the only problem I could think of.

There is no benefit to an expensive tool chest. There are many benefits to a good quality chest. Like anything else , good quality pays off in the long run. Like most things in life you get what you pay for , so I bought most of them used , I got the quality without the price tag. I have 7...

I only have experience with us made ratchets , I have dozens and dozens of them I collected over the past 35 years. SK PROTO WILLIAMS SNAP ON ARMSTRONG MAC CRAFTSMAN MATCO CORNWELL ect . snap on dual 80's and matco 88 are the best ( smoothest , least back drag , thinnest head , most...