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I have the 10" Icons and the Quinns. I use the Icons frequently; the Quinns are awkward and don't come out often.

I have to question the need for an ultra low profile pass-through socket set. Engineers make questionable decisions all the time, but a compound fastener in a low access area isn't something I've ever seen or heard of.

Between the prebuilt batteries I got from Amazon and the ones I built myself, I had 3 different capacities in identical housings. That has been solved with the help of my neighbor's multi-toolhead 3D printer. The nameplates are printed in ABS and are 0.6mm thick.

That's why I use top quality cells in my packs.

That was the other question I meant to ask: What Makita chargers are you trying to use and how old are they?

It's pretty hard to overheat the connections with a normal soldering iron set to 350C. What kind are you using? The way I do it is to position the tab so it is touching one end of the slot. Once a solder bridge is formed between the two parts, I start dragging the tip of the iron down the...

Mine are working fine. I've also built 4 more batteries; two more with P45B 21700 cells and two with P30B 18650s to use with my leaf blower. I also upgraded the BMS boards on my older set to the new 5 mosfet version. All of them are charging fine on Makita chargers. I'm not sure what is...

Mine work fine on the new dual-slot chargers, aside from the fact that they're programmed to stop charging at 6Ah, so I have to re-seat them to get a full charge sometimes.

I used mine to find a faulty chip just the other day.

My 3D printer.

I don't see any reason to discriminate. They all come in handy for different tasks.

Depending on the era the house was built, that might be lead.

Somebody was confused about how the flange works, but it looks like worst case you'll need a new flange and wax ring. Just grab the T bolts with pliers as recommended earlier.

Any alkaline battery can leak. Eneloops or Energizer lithiums are all I use anymore. You have to be careful with the Energizer lithiums, though. They have a substantially higher starting voltage and can damage some devices.

Built mine a couple months ago. 😁

2ndGearRubber is the guy to talk to about specialty leads for mechanic work.

The Tone and Astro options he provides are both solid tools.

The tube shouldn't be sealed. You definitely shouldn't be drilling holes and squirting in spray foam. You should have a drain hole so that any moisture that finds its way inside the handle can drain out/dry or the handles will eventually corrode from the inside out. So: Drill a hole big enough...

I've gotten tired of watching comparisons where 75% of the products are Amazon alphabet soup "brands" while major players in a given space are completely overlooked.