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Sorry maybe my question was unclear. Is it required to use a clamp like this in the knockout: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-ProConnex-3-8-in-Clamp-on-Type-Service-Entrance-Connector-Conduit-Fitting/3152587 Or can you just run your romex through the knockout without any strain relief?

Potentially stupid question: When installing these fixtures (or any tube fixtures) do you just run the romex through the knockout in the back? According to NEC, is there any sort of strain relief device needed?

Would it be allowed to take a ground lug from a service panel and use a segment of that to join the wires. It would work like a polaris connector, but at a fraction of the cost...

I was under the impression that the 14-50 was backwards compatible with the 6-50, but turns out that was just wishful thinking. I'm using 6 ga wire.

14-50 to future proof for an EV charger, and I can still plug the welder's 6-50 plug into a 14-50.

I would like to install 3 NEMA 14-50 outlets (240v 50A) on one circuit, so that I can use my welder in different locations in the garage. Is this allowed? See left wall on attached plan. If not, can you show me the section in the NEC that states this? If yes, how do you do it? Can the the...

That... That kinda cheered me up. I love a good righteous rant. Thank you for that. I hate my city building department. And the Planning Commission. And pretty much all planning commissions.

http://ironhydroxide.blogspot.com/2018/09/ow-my-bank-account.html In case you are interested in the details of the garage.

I had an Amish crew do my garage. I was really happy with the quality and speed of the work. Cost wasn't bad either.

It's all a matter of perspective. I'm used to seeing standard 20x20 attached garages, so my 20x30 feels big. Also my lot is only 30x126.

I'm thinking 2 separate feeds, 2 20a circuits in each box, so 240v. Probably the cheapest way would be 2 GFCI outlets upstream?

Couldn't find this in a search, though I'm sure it's been covered. Seeing that GFCI outlets can't be split wired (different circuits for top and bottom outlets in a box), how do I add GFCI protection to split wired circuits? Are GFCI breakers the only way to do this?

Labor must be cheap in your area! My 5" garage floor was about $3000 for 20x30, with rebar 32" om center. That's not even counting the $4500 for the foundation and footings!

Nope. This city's building dept is incredibly inflexible.

I have about 25k budgeted for footing, slab, shell, and garage door (materials and labor) and electrical, lights, insulation, and drywall (materials). Additionally, I'm paying 3300 for current garage demo and 5k for driveway/patio. Maybe that helps in some small way.

No, I'm following you. That's what this is. You linked a Pella door, which is apparently the exact same thing as an Amarr, like I have shown above. Sectional, on tracks, rolls up, rather than swing out or up.

I also agree with her, even though I'm not as particular. With what I was quoted for a similar standard standard door of similar construction, it's maybe another 35-40% in cost. Not nothing, but still doable when you look at the total cost of the building.

This is an overhead, doesn't swing on hinges. My wife is very particular about home design. If I told you how much we spent on our tile backsplash and how many tile samples we have in a box in a basement you'd think we're lunatics. It's not all bad though, it means I get to live in a nice...

31 here, but thankfully I have a wife that keeps me in check so I don't think it'll ever get too out of hand. If you have too much stuff (that's actually worth something) and you really need to get rid of it, just sell it for cheap. If this **** is weighing you down, and you are afraid it will...

Finally found a garage door that fits the bill. It's an Amarr Oak Ridge, 24ga sandwich construction, for $1600 installed. I think I'll go with it. This is it on a CAD drawing of my garage.