Search results

In some plants we allow fork lifts in 8-10 hours if the conditions are favorable, and if they are extremely gentle. But if you can wait the better.

Rapid set self leveling sealant is sold at home depot is very good as well. Rapid set has much better customer service than sika if the need arises.

Are you around south west Virginia?

You will be fine after 24 hours we do it all the time

Grinding is best because your only going to be as good as what you're going over. That said, If it's not peeling or flaking it can be sanded, pressure washed, and gone over if need be.

A good striper used to remove floor wax should do will with a swing buffer. Rinse it well after

Again, you can rent a diamond grinder from sunbelt. Epoxy Primer with urethane top coat. Will last a loonnggg time.

Grinding, epoxy primer with urethane topcoat is the way to go. We have had these thin mil systems in heavy manufacturing plants last more than 20 years.

What are your goals for it?

Look into acetone stains, you can layer multiple colors to give it a nice look and can still grind for prep. A very popular floor right now

After 13 years there is a good chance the sealer. As solar Columbia said, see how it absorbs water. If you can't grinder the floor yiu may have to strip any existing sealer off before acid etching. What is your goal with the floor?

We generally run 80 sanding screens, it makes quick work. A solvent wipe after vacuuming is a good idea as well.

Look up a process called "spray deck" we do alot around pool decks, driveways and walk way. Its design can vary and our company has had it down in commercial situations for over 20 years with no issues other then sealing when needed

Check out novolac epoxies

If it is a true mma I'd go that route. They are very uv stable. Polyaspartic would also work. There are also brands of solvent based acrylic sealers that can be tinted, while not very chemical resistant they are cheap and easy to apply

Just wit if you can stand it

This type of floor we would shot blast. Install an oil tolerant primer, and then create a slurry of epoxy and fine sands and squeegee over all the spalls and damaged areas. After it cures it can FE ground or sanded smooth and then the entire floor coated with coating of your choice.

We do plenty of sloping. It is very labor intensive and proper materials are costly. But, it can be done.

We prep for a dollar a foot if it's not anything out of the ordinary. Where are you located?

We use tennant coatings alot, that was what I used on my father's shop. Trowel coat epoxy primer, 5mil epoxy coat just to level out some things then the urethane at 450ft per gallon.