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Hi Robert, can you check your PM?

Thanks, Hiball for your help. If I need a to replace the pump piston, can you help me find a used one? The new one is quite expensive from Lazzar or Blackhawk website.

Yes, I did install the spring prior to putting back the cylinder to the frame but the spring is about an inch shorter to the stud so I have to pull it with the brake spring puller so I could hook it to the stud, and boy, those springs are strong!!!

Hiball, one more thing, can you tell me the easiest to reinstall the 2 big springs that are hooked to the hole in the cylinder and connect to the stud on the arm? I had to muscle it with a brake spring device to get installed, whew!!

Yes, I did remove it. Here is what I will do. I will remove the cylinder from the body again. I will open all the valves except the valve on the side for weight limitatiom protection. I will remove all oil, flush all holes with new oil and dust off air cannister, and reinstall them. Is that ok...

Hiball, I did not touch the ram assembly cuz I could not open it although i tried a lot of pounding and heat to unscrew it. I hope I did not damage anything inside like the seal or gasket? 1) flushing valve vein?, valve plug? clarify please. How do I do these? Steve, why would the plunger not...

Hiball. i did the bleeding already. I did the air purging , too. I wasted so much oil refilling. Could the damaged plunger assembly has something to do with it? Remember the plunger that I damaged while drilling the bottom plug ( refer to #472 thread)?

here are the rest of the pictures.

As I have promised, here are the pictures of my fully restored, painted Hein Werner WS. It took me awhile but i finally did it!! Better late than never, right? But I hit a glitch again and I need your expert advice on this especially Hiball, who without his help I would never have done this...

At last!! Here is my cylinder ready to be painted.

I will get it for you tomorrow. I am still away on holiday.

Hiball, help!!! I messed up the plunger when drilling the bottom hole. I must have drilled too deep and It damaged the hex screw, the washer, and bit a part of the bolt. I ordered the same size of hex plug, 14-28, and I plan of using a JB cold weld on the damage bolt before screwing back to...

I was able to remove the plunger from the bottom and also the guard using a drag link socket. I have to drill the bottom plug. Now, i know the oem hex plug for the bottom hole is 3/4"-20. i would like to tap the hole the same size so i can use the oem plug. What size of tap and drill bit do I...

This is what I am looking for.

Hi, Hiball. Again, your wisdom on the subject is greatly appreciated. You were right. I didn't have the leverage. My vise is installed on a tool cart with wheels. Like i said before, I don't have the pleasure of a garage so my space is quite limited. The last time I tried to have a solid hold...

I might have to stick a rug in the hole prior to drilling to avoid dust, rust and metal bit from dropping inside the chamber.

Hi, Alterego. Here is an update with the bolt removal. 1) The heat did not work. I applied the mini ductor automobile induction heater 3 times, 20, 40, 130 seconds nothing happened. I pounded the extractor and socket with a breaking bar, and a 3 foot pipe. The socket gets rounded and the...

Ok. The heat first. I have a friend who owns a induction Heat gun that we used to unscrew the top nut on the release mechanism that was also frozen. If it fails,then the drag link socket where I made slots. But I believe without heating it first, nothing will work. The spiral extractor was...

It is getting worst!!! The nut is totally frozen and factory torqued. I don.t know how Elroy was able to pull it out with just the spiral extractor. I bet he used a torch prior to using the extractor but failed to mentioned it. Anyway, it is only heat that will work on this after I tries...

No not yet. I am still trying to figure out how to get this off with out damaging the unit thread.