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The ceiling is the same steel used on the exterior except white. The trusses are 4' on center. I added 2x6's inbetween the trusses so I could staple the insulation to the trusses. I used R-30. As far as the walls I will be using plywood I think. Not sure as of yet but I figured I would seal it...

Have not repainted it. And have owned it for about 8 years.

Seals and pins are average. Just changed oil and filters. Its nice for a 24 year old machine.

When I insulate the walls I will put up an air barrier first like Attic Insulation Baffles . You know the type you use in attics or garages so the air can flow between the plywood and insulation. When I heat the garage I will keep it at say 55 during the winter. I will be dead and gone before...

Thanks! Its a 30x40 and the exhaust fan I was going to use if i did any paint work. Had it laying around so I just installed it in the back wall.

I have one...just didnt want to load the garage up to much until I finished the inside:thumbup:

1986 Kubota L345DT 4x4 34HP with 1700 hours. Has full frame Back Hoe attachment. New clutch 3 months ago. Everything works and runs great. 3 Point Hitch. All sheet metal is really clean. $7200.00 or B/O Grader blade available for extra $200.00

1938 Ford 2 Door Std. Sedan. 4 1/2 inch chop, Hidden Hinges, Frenched Tail Lights, New Smooth Running Boards, New Set Back Fire Wall, Smooth Cowl, Car was blasted and epoxyed. Etc. Very Solid Car. Would make great street rod or rat rod. I have owned this car for 20+ years and dont have the time...

Here is the new garage. Its not as big or as nice as my old one but its still nice and roomy. Still need to insulate the walls and get the heat hooked up. All electric is done.

Everyone who has looked at the house says they dont need the garage or extra space. Its crazy out here! I guess the right person will have to look at it. Still hoping....

Thanks Bib....I havent worked on that thing in about 15 years. I would like it to go to a good home. I'm just into these boats and dont have time for the 38anymore. Here is the link to my house thats for sale.....Someone come get it...

Never finished upstairs. It turned into storage for everyone...Its ok for now. I should be charging rent!:bounce: I put the place up for sale. Its on the market now but its been really slow. I want to downsize and have more time for my hobbies.

I posted awhile back on the progress. Here are some new pictures. I still need to give the outside a second coat of stain. Finished the electric work about 4 months ago. Still need to insulate and sheet rock. Also hook up the boiler for the radiant floor heat.

Very Nice!

I put a second floor on mine. Check out this older post that I have alot of pictures of the project. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2149&highlight=scott+pearson

I will be using an oil fired boiler. I have one big enough to heat boat bottom and top floors. Layout was really simple. 8 zones at 242feet each. I did not use a foam barrier at all. I just dont trust them and really dont know what will happen down the road. I just used a plastic barrier between...

I used Fibermesh in everything. All my footings and the 8" floor in the garage. I also used commercial expansion joints. You have to set them in before you pour the floor. It was a little work but well worth it. No cutting later and not a crack anywhere in the floor. Its over 4 years old now and...

Here are some pictures of the radiant heat I put in my 40X50 garage. Scott

The "chamber" system you are talking about are called Infiltrators. There is no stone used in this type of system. Just K-4 sand. They create a void and water in lost under them. They need to have water evaporate from above also and you CANNOT drive on them at all. Hope this helps!

You cannot pave over a leach field. Reason being not only does water perk through the sand and soil it also does evaporate through the fill above. The maximum fill over top of the field is no more the 18". You have very light wall perforated PVC pipe...It will crush and become uneven. This will...