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So Im looking at the Vissemann B1HE-85 (85k btu) model, non-combi, does that seem adequate? I feel like the next size up, 120K, is too too large and will short cycle in the shoulder months?

That Rauplate looks likea winner. Two seperate radint heating zones, one for the loft the other is the slab. I might just need to jump under each steel joist rather than cutting a 1.5" hole in them. TurnipTruck- did you just do fiberglass batts under that or did you use any of the reflective...

Fair point, but the euro style radiators are more costly and though I like the look, they take up valuable wall space. Since I have access to the underside of the loft floor (garage ceiling), running a 3 loops of Pex should be pretty easy and cost effective.

Hi Fitter30, thanks for the response and running the calc. Thank you for pointing out the issue with mixing the two systems. Since the loft will run a low ambient mini split and be well insulated, I'll skip the fin tube all together. The 100-W B1HE-120 is a 120k btu, it should still have...

Hi All, I’m in the process of getting the heating sorted for my workshop. I was hoping I could get some advice on my setup before I order the components. When I poured the slab I ran 7 loops of 1/2 “ pex, each about 300’ in anticipation of running a propane boiler. It’s a steel building, 40 x...

Thanks everyone for your help and support!

IT WORKED! The gap I had under the master cylinder was caused by a mis placed washer. Rather than making a mess bleeding out fluid, I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the two carriage stops at the top of the master side post. This gave me almost 1/4" of space to pry the master side hydraulic...

I’ll report back when I try it tonight

just to update- I spoke to Mohawk (such great customer service), he pointed out that the base of the master-side ram has a "button" that works as a diverter. If that button is stuck and doesnt depress the lift will remain up as a safety feature. I checked, and sure enough there is just over...

Thanks for the response, that would make sense. I bled a few ounces and it didn’t work. How much do you suggest? I tried tapping in the side of the valve while doing it as well hoping it would unseat it but no luck

Hi all, I finally installed at setup my late 80s System 1 9,000 lift. Many refer to it as a "1 line" as it has only one hydraulic line overhead connecting the two posts. I did the proper bleed procedure as outlined in the manual. I got to step 7, ran the slave side carriage to the top and now I...

I need to order new doors for the house and workshop but can’t stomach the new prices. My suggestion is to buy a used door off marketplace and dress it up. Around here you can find used uninsulated ‘contractor’ doors that are a year or so old for a couple hundred bucks, tracks and hardware...

Just an update for closure in case anyone comes back to this thread. I ended up ripping the C channel to create two large Ls to serve as the uprights for the corners, then bolted it with 1/2 hardware. Its overbuilt with additional reinforcements all over and cross strapping on the back. I used...

Thats a good suggestion, I was trying to come up with a simple bracket I could weld up then bolt it together in place. That would spare me rom having to weld the galvanized metal and make the whole thing more modular. I'm always impressed by the out of the box thinking some members come up with...

Hey creative repurposers, I have a bunch of left over 38' long cold formed C-channels / purlins. They are 24" wide with 4" legs and 3/4" end tabs, 10 gauge galv steel. I previously used some to build a 28' long simple fire wood rack by just notching the ends and a few screws. It worked out well...

I forgot about POR 15! I have the same experience with ER, I assumed it was user error. I’ll try it again if that fails its sanding and the POR-15 regime

You think the mildew could damage the lift beyond safe use? I’ll admit I should have stored it better (this was supposed to be for a month…) but the mechanicals are protected and were lubed up prior to being covered. I can’t imagine the mildew and rust being more than cosmetic. I’ve seen these...

Absolutely, I’ll sand the rust down first.

Rust oleum it is. Originally I wanted to repaint it grey or black but I think having a bold color will be safer. I’ll grind the bottom of the posts and hit it with some rust oleum. Once it’s installed and I have time I can deal with a full repaint.

Hi all, I’m getting ready to install my old Mohawk 2 post car lift, it’s been sitting covered outside for a couple years and has some rust on it. It worked well when I removed it from the seller’s shop but I had planned to repaint it prior to installing it. I was surprised after uncovering it...